1880s. Mantelet of black silk voided velvet trimmed with lace, grosgrain ribbon, and jet, made with two lappet tails and partial sleeves. more »
This outerwear garment is cut in four main pieces with a shape..
1880s. Mantelet of black silk voided velvet trimmed with lace, grosgrain ribbon, and jet, made with two lappet tails and partial sleeves. « less
This outerwear garment is cut in four main pieces with a shaped shoulder but no sleeves, closing down the front with ten hooks and eyes from the 5.1 cm / 2 in. high standing collar to the waist. It fits snugly to the body and arms, allowing ease of movement only from the elbows down; its close-fitting shoulders mean only a similarly close-fitting dress sleeve could have been worn beneath it. The fabric wraps from the center-back seam toward the front around the arms, and joins the front panels with a seam that begins as a dart behind the shoulder, flowing up over the shoulder and down to the waist in front. Each front panel is shaped with one 25.4 cm / 10 in. long dart beginning beneath the bust and extending over the hips. The lappets hanging down past the waist are of one piece with the front panels and have a vertical pleat running their full length. In back, the fabric is cut to accommodate a bustled dress worn beneath, and forms 13.3 cm / 5.25 in. long pleated tails at the small of the back that would have draped on top of it.
Knife pleated lace ruffles 6 cm / 2.375 in. wide, edged with grosgrain ribbon and three rows of jet beads at the base, form a standing frill around the collar and flank the opening. The same trim finishes the lappets, and follows the hem across the pleats of the tails. A teardrop appliqué of small jet beads is sewn to the small of the back, hiding the top of the pleats from view.
The mantelet is completely bag-lined with a glazed cotton twill fabric, with the exception of a placket at the front left closure which lines itself. It has the remains of a waist-stay belt inside it, with fragments of elastic tapes at the side seams and a frayed belt loop just above the tail pleats in back. This would have helped keep the garment snug to the body, preventing it from shifting. Machine-sewn and hand-sewn.