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I'm going to screen

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share and give me

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a not someone if
you're looking

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at my welcome slide.

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Awesome, great.

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Okay, so a heads up.

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This presentation is
going to be recorded so

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that it can live
in our scholars

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repository afterwards.

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So we can bear that in

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mind while you tap euro,

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euro audio and video

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going, It's being recorded.

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And we do welcome
your questions.

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Please make use of

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the chat during
the presentation.

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Nikki, hence, our scholars

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Repository Manager
is going to be

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monitoring the chat
and no, thank you.

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Thank you very, very much.

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She's also on hand
to answer any

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in depth repository
questions.

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So a street and

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I have packed a lot
in this project as

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many months in the
making and we're

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trying to talk about
it and 40 and save.

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So there's little
time at the end

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for some discussion.

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So you're welcome
to un-mute

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your mike or raise your
hand at that time.

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But if something
comes to mind,

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feel free to pop
it into the chat

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and we'll go from there.

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So quick introductions.

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I'm Sarah stunts and I'm

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the Digital
Collections Manager

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here at the University
of New Hampshire.

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And I'm presenting
today is part of

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our open access
efforts this month.

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Open access is an
international initiative,

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and as you can see,

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it refers to free
unrestricted access.

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And this digital collection
in particular is

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a great example of open
access initiative.

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We're really lucky to
have a leader flying

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our scholarly
communication librarian

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as an in house away expert

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so you can find her
in our directory.

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Should you have any
open access questions.

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And I'll also
add that IDA and

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Nikki both created
presentations

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for our open
access programming

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this month and they're

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really worth checking out.

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Mickey's in particular,

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the video she made with

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a leader is really
well worth your time.

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It's fun and educational.

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So making, if you want to

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pop a link to that in
the chat if you want,

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but I encourage people
to check it out.

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That's awesome
scholars repository.

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And we'll, of course,

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my next introduction
is to history.

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To Schaffer are my
wonderful colleague

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and the brains and

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the will behind
this project.

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A street, a lot of things.

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And for a pistol title

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is a clothing historian,

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which is pretty
fascinating.

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I think you're the
only one I've ever

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met that goes by that.

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And I just very

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lucky history to die

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was in the right place at

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the right time to work with

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you on this project.

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And I'm going to turn

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it over to history to now.

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She's going to
introduce Professor

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around she Bowen and

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gives some nice background.

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They pursue that look as

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mutual because this
project would not

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have turned out the
way it did without

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your help and
understanding.

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So the collection that

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you have available online

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is The 200 out of

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700 items that are at

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the University
of New Hampshire

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are Muji Bowen,

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historic clothing
collection and

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Irma herself or was a
home economics teacher.

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She was an associate
professor,

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assistant professor
that came to what

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was not yet called

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University of New
Hampshire in 1920.

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And she began
the collection

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as hands-on teaching
tool for students.

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Both to have them handle

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objects and actually
see the stitching.

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And to get a sense

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of the history of clothing.

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And the donations came
from her colleagues,

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came from alumni,
came from people

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local to Durham and

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other areas of
New Hampshire.

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And when she died in 1947,

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the collection was
named in her honor.

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Than in the 19 sixties,

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the home economics
department changed over.

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It became occupational
therapy and

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the collection was no
longer relevant there.

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So it was given over

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to the University Museum.

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It was incorporated
into that collection,

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but it is still its
own unique collection

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within that collection.

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And what began as a
teaching tool for

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sewing has been since

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recognized as an
unexpected archive

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of New Hampshire heritage

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on a personal scale,

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a glimpse of lives
that otherwise

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don't appear in the
historical record.

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These aren't things that

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get written up in the
books that you read,

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necessarily, at least not

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very much, very often.

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And what you're
seeing here are

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some sample pages
done by olives,

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00:04:45,019 --> 00:04:49,684
true, who donated
class of 1921.

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00:04:49,684 --> 00:04:52,310
She had her own home
economics class.

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We don't know if
it was with Irma

137
00:04:53,780 --> 00:04:55,445
herself. That is not noted.

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But we have her notes
and those notes

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are these samples
of ways too,

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00:05:01,130 --> 00:05:03,005
for example, miter corners

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00:05:03,005 --> 00:05:05,750
or to do different
kinds of gathering.

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What's the difference
between gathering,

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00:05:07,309 --> 00:05:08,794
ensuring, engaging?

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That's the item
on the left,

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00:05:11,225 --> 00:05:15,319
and how to do a
flat fell seem.

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So that one is

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00:05:17,270 --> 00:05:18,799
very interesting to
me because she has it

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00:05:18,799 --> 00:05:20,359
pins so that you
see both sides

149
00:05:20,359 --> 00:05:22,520
and how it looks in
the front and back.

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So that's one of
the things we

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00:05:23,750 --> 00:05:25,159
have in the collection
and there are

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several pages
from her notebook

153
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on the online database.

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So really, what we're

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looking at right now
is an opportunity

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for the online
database to continue

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00:05:35,195 --> 00:05:39,680
the mission of the
original Bowen collections

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still trying to teach,

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00:05:41,074 --> 00:05:43,249
but it's expanding
the reach

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by making it
more accessible.

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00:05:44,959 --> 00:05:46,940
I having it be online and

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we're talking accessible
to designers,

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00:05:48,754 --> 00:05:50,000
those interested
in technique,

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the artistry of clothing,

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in the historical
relevance.

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You want to take
this or sure.

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I'm just I wanted
to quickly

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mention that

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00:06:03,820 --> 00:06:05,559
we thanks Jess.
Treatise efforts.

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This project was funded
with grant money and

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00:06:08,874 --> 00:06:12,609
lots of our own time
and sweat and tears,

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but it's always helpful
to have a check

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its aims behind the efforts

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00:06:16,809 --> 00:06:19,010
are where we're
grateful entire.

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Okay, so what to wear,
what to include?

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Any museum collection is

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already curated
to some extent.

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But what we really
wanted to do with

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the online database was

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to highlight not
only the things.

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Tell interesting
stories, but also

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the things that are fragile

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enough that they likely

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00:06:44,269 --> 00:06:46,010
will not get exhibited
because there

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simply aren't
in a condition

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00:06:48,020 --> 00:06:50,570
to survive that experience.

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And actually, the
backdrop photograph on

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this slide is a perfect
example of that.

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This is an evening gown

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00:07:01,069 --> 00:07:04,250
made in Paris by
the House of Ruth,

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00:07:04,250 --> 00:07:06,590
which was contemporary
to the house of worth,

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00:07:06,590 --> 00:07:09,034
which people may be
more familiar with.

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00:07:09,034 --> 00:07:14,270
And it is covered with
a net overlay that

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00:07:14,270 --> 00:07:17,060
has upside-down
exclamation point

195
00:07:17,060 --> 00:07:20,404
shaped triangles
all over it.

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00:07:20,404 --> 00:07:23,479
And right now, the BOD is,

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00:07:23,479 --> 00:07:26,150
gives you a more
clear understanding

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00:07:26,150 --> 00:07:27,470
of what this dress
used to look

199
00:07:27,470 --> 00:07:28,970
like in terms of
this Bangles,

200
00:07:28,970 --> 00:07:30,890
the skirt is a lot less

201
00:07:30,890 --> 00:07:32,240
populated right now because

202
00:07:32,240 --> 00:07:33,559
so many of them
have broken off.

203
00:07:33,559 --> 00:07:35,300
You can see the dots

204
00:07:35,300 --> 00:07:36,845
there at the top
by the waste

205
00:07:36,845 --> 00:07:38,510
are the points of

206
00:07:38,510 --> 00:07:39,770
the explanations that are

207
00:07:39,770 --> 00:07:41,329
still attached to the net.

208
00:07:41,329 --> 00:07:43,909
The rest of this angle
has snapped off.

209
00:07:43,909 --> 00:07:45,080
You can see some there

210
00:07:45,080 --> 00:07:46,235
that are partially snapped,

211
00:07:46,235 --> 00:07:48,319
some of just the little dot

212
00:07:48,319 --> 00:07:50,734
and then there's a lot
that are simply gone.

213
00:07:50,734 --> 00:07:52,700
There's a lot
missing there.

214
00:07:52,700 --> 00:07:54,769
On the back of the dress
was she would have

215
00:07:54,769 --> 00:07:57,485
sat there almost
completely done.

216
00:07:57,485 --> 00:07:59,195
One of the things I still

217
00:07:59,195 --> 00:08:00,290
hope to do is capture

218
00:08:00,290 --> 00:08:02,960
video of this in motion.

219
00:08:02,960 --> 00:08:03,949
Because if you can imagine

220
00:08:03,949 --> 00:08:05,060
her walking into the room,

221
00:08:05,060 --> 00:08:06,305
how this would
have sparkled.

222
00:08:06,305 --> 00:08:08,270
But yeah, every
time this dress

223
00:08:08,270 --> 00:08:10,594
gets handled to be put
on them and again,

224
00:08:10,594 --> 00:08:12,350
more of these fall off.

225
00:08:12,350 --> 00:08:14,390
It's kept in a box
and that box is

226
00:08:14,390 --> 00:08:16,460
full of broken off angles.

227
00:08:16,460 --> 00:08:18,440
That's just the
truth of this item.

228
00:08:18,440 --> 00:08:20,700
And every time it
goes on, just lay it.

229
00:08:20,700 --> 00:08:22,219
It's getting more
and more damage.

230
00:08:22,219 --> 00:08:23,360
So the chances of

231
00:08:23,360 --> 00:08:24,590
it ever being seen
an exhibition

232
00:08:24,590 --> 00:08:27,049
again, very low gear.

233
00:08:27,049 --> 00:08:28,100
You can look at it and you

234
00:08:28,100 --> 00:08:29,245
consume and there are

235
00:08:29,245 --> 00:08:32,044
multiple photographs of it,

236
00:08:32,044 --> 00:08:34,895
very detailed descriptions
of all the items.

237
00:08:34,895 --> 00:08:36,769
I approached this
both as a museum

238
00:08:36,769 --> 00:08:39,379
professional to have
the items out there,

239
00:08:39,379 --> 00:08:41,150
but also as a user,

240
00:08:41,150 --> 00:08:42,769
because I have spent many,

241
00:08:42,769 --> 00:08:46,700
many hours online
various museum sites

242
00:08:46,700 --> 00:08:49,040
hoping to get information
on the object

243
00:08:49,040 --> 00:08:50,239
and looking at
him very often

244
00:08:50,239 --> 00:08:51,349
there's very
little available.

245
00:08:51,349 --> 00:08:52,430
And I decided no,

246
00:08:52,430 --> 00:08:53,675
I'm gonna go a
different route.

247
00:08:53,675 --> 00:08:54,650
And I'm going to tell you

248
00:08:54,650 --> 00:08:56,270
probably like to touch.

249
00:08:56,270 --> 00:08:58,279
But the idea here
is that you can

250
00:08:58,279 --> 00:08:59,959
get so much information
from looking

251
00:08:59,959 --> 00:09:02,060
at these online that

252
00:09:02,060 --> 00:09:04,894
it's actually
leads to write,

253
00:09:04,894 --> 00:09:07,129
I am as a street attacks,

254
00:09:07,129 --> 00:09:08,000
I just want to explain the

255
00:09:08,000 --> 00:09:09,170
screen-sharing I am in

256
00:09:09,170 --> 00:09:10,670
the database now
and I'll click

257
00:09:10,670 --> 00:09:12,170
through objects as
she's speaking.

258
00:09:12,170 --> 00:09:13,869
But I I'm glad history

259
00:09:13,869 --> 00:09:15,050
that you mentioned
the richness,

260
00:09:15,050 --> 00:09:17,149
not just of the retiree
with which you've

261
00:09:17,149 --> 00:09:20,810
seen how great
the photos are.

262
00:09:20,810 --> 00:09:22,519
And you'll see more
of those of course.

263
00:09:22,519 --> 00:09:25,129
But the descriptions,
I think

264
00:09:25,129 --> 00:09:26,690
modern AI that feels like

265
00:09:26,690 --> 00:09:28,700
TLD are a little
bit too long,

266
00:09:28,700 --> 00:09:29,809
didn't read, but
I'm, we have

267
00:09:29,809 --> 00:09:31,115
gotten feedback that faces.

268
00:09:31,115 --> 00:09:33,439
I'm just incredibly
helpful and such

269
00:09:33,439 --> 00:09:35,779
a rich resource from a
research perspective.

270
00:09:35,779 --> 00:09:38,389
So this is with a database,

271
00:09:38,389 --> 00:09:40,130
looks like I'll call up

272
00:09:40,130 --> 00:09:42,499
our next object that
visit with photography,

273
00:09:42,499 --> 00:09:44,120
you want to have
maximum information

274
00:09:44,120 --> 00:09:44,690
because you can always

275
00:09:44,690 --> 00:09:46,594
reduce the signal text.

276
00:09:46,594 --> 00:09:49,790
You always make a summary.

277
00:09:49,790 --> 00:09:52,039
This dress is another
example of something

278
00:09:52,039 --> 00:09:55,865
that is great to have

279
00:09:55,865 --> 00:09:59,330
here because it can't
go on display until it

280
00:09:59,330 --> 00:10:01,189
has some pretty major

281
00:10:01,189 --> 00:10:03,569
conservation done to it.

282
00:10:03,569 --> 00:10:07,284
It is a very, very
fine, sheer, in fact,

283
00:10:07,284 --> 00:10:09,880
printed cotton and in

284
00:10:09,880 --> 00:10:11,499
the shoulders
as you can see,

285
00:10:11,499 --> 00:10:13,254
and especially in the fog.

286
00:10:13,254 --> 00:10:15,039
In fact, I think
I don't even I'm

287
00:10:15,039 --> 00:10:16,450
not even sure I
photographed the backward.

288
00:10:16,450 --> 00:10:17,739
If I did, it
was on an angle

289
00:10:17,739 --> 00:10:19,420
because it was so bad.

290
00:10:19,420 --> 00:10:21,039
I was able to get it safely

291
00:10:21,039 --> 00:10:22,360
and gently on
the mannequin,

292
00:10:22,360 --> 00:10:24,010
but I certainly would
not want to leave it

293
00:10:24,010 --> 00:10:26,170
that way in this
current condition.

294
00:10:26,170 --> 00:10:29,725
This stress has some
historical value.

295
00:10:29,725 --> 00:10:32,094
There is a tie to Jerome.

296
00:10:32,094 --> 00:10:34,210
Many of the things I'm
the collection are,

297
00:10:34,210 --> 00:10:36,309
I believe New
Hampshire focused.

298
00:10:36,309 --> 00:10:39,159
This dress was warned
by Rebecca Melon who,

299
00:10:39,159 --> 00:10:41,394
who had it and, you
know, when she wore it.

300
00:10:41,394 --> 00:10:42,834
She was the daughter-in-law

301
00:10:42,834 --> 00:10:44,199
of vegetable sheath,

302
00:10:44,199 --> 00:10:47,899
Frost, Durham germ cell,

303
00:10:47,899 --> 00:10:50,044
a prominent frost
family sheet.

304
00:10:50,044 --> 00:10:52,160
Rebecca wore this dress
at the beginning of

305
00:10:52,160 --> 00:10:53,660
the siege of
Charleston Harbor

306
00:10:53,660 --> 00:10:54,995
in South Carolina,

307
00:10:54,995 --> 00:10:58,310
which began August
17th, 1863.

308
00:10:58,310 --> 00:10:59,719
And she was 28 years old

309
00:10:59,719 --> 00:11:01,369
at the time and had
two young children.

310
00:11:01,369 --> 00:11:03,964
So this is what she
had on when to seek

311
00:11:03,964 --> 00:11:07,024
started the damage
to the dress.

312
00:11:07,024 --> 00:11:09,229
That could very easily
have happened later.

313
00:11:09,229 --> 00:11:10,639
I'm not saying that
that happened during

314
00:11:10,639 --> 00:11:12,199
the siege, but
from storage,

315
00:11:12,199 --> 00:11:13,580
it looks like it's mostly

316
00:11:13,580 --> 00:11:15,230
the BOD is not the
spirit which makes me

317
00:11:15,230 --> 00:11:16,820
think it's from
storage me because I'm

318
00:11:16,820 --> 00:11:18,859
a hanger and that
was bad for it.

319
00:11:18,859 --> 00:11:20,434
Very delicate fabric.

320
00:11:20,434 --> 00:11:22,249
But it's a lovely garment

321
00:11:22,249 --> 00:11:23,930
and on a mannequin that is

322
00:11:23,930 --> 00:11:25,969
designed to
showcase the shape

323
00:11:25,969 --> 00:11:27,814
it actually would have
had on the wearer.

324
00:11:27,814 --> 00:11:30,064
You get a sense
of what this

325
00:11:30,064 --> 00:11:33,869
really looks like
on the person.

326
00:11:34,360 --> 00:11:38,059
And so we have
here a bit of

327
00:11:38,059 --> 00:11:39,619
New Hampshire
connection and

328
00:11:39,619 --> 00:11:43,490
also broader United
States history.

329
00:11:43,490 --> 00:11:45,589
I love that we have
that history to

330
00:11:45,589 --> 00:11:47,690
know who was
wearing out when,

331
00:11:47,690 --> 00:11:51,455
as I've just mentioned
to you, fail credible.

332
00:11:51,455 --> 00:11:53,509
And here's another
example of something

333
00:11:53,509 --> 00:11:56,960
that really should not
be displayed anymore.

334
00:11:56,960 --> 00:12:00,034
This is an early here cone

335
00:12:00,034 --> 00:12:02,465
made with an early
form of plastic,

336
00:12:02,465 --> 00:12:04,939
which mixed, was created by

337
00:12:04,939 --> 00:12:09,229
mixing cellulose nitrate,
THE plasticizer.

338
00:12:09,229 --> 00:12:12,035
Close nitrate can burn.

339
00:12:12,035 --> 00:12:14,090
The plasticizer is leeching

340
00:12:14,090 --> 00:12:15,770
out and degrading
the material,

341
00:12:15,770 --> 00:12:18,110
which is why you see
all these crystals.

342
00:12:18,110 --> 00:12:19,999
We have a few more
combs made of

343
00:12:19,999 --> 00:12:21,154
this material and there

344
00:12:21,154 --> 00:12:23,300
times have broken off.

345
00:12:23,300 --> 00:12:26,674
And it has also
corroded the brass.

346
00:12:26,674 --> 00:12:29,239
The acid free tissue
that it's resting

347
00:12:29,239 --> 00:12:31,654
on is brittle and browned.

348
00:12:31,654 --> 00:12:33,379
And just you can

349
00:12:33,379 --> 00:12:35,390
see the damage and
you can see some of

350
00:12:35,390 --> 00:12:36,079
the damage here around

351
00:12:36,079 --> 00:12:37,190
the milestones to that's

352
00:12:37,190 --> 00:12:39,199
all corrosion
from the plastic

353
00:12:39,199 --> 00:12:41,539
of the home and there's
nothing we can do to

354
00:12:41,539 --> 00:12:43,880
prevent this damage
from continuing.

355
00:12:43,880 --> 00:12:46,609
So these are not

356
00:12:46,609 --> 00:12:47,779
going to be around
for very long.

357
00:12:47,779 --> 00:12:49,279
It just can't. It's, it's

358
00:12:49,279 --> 00:12:50,359
innate in the objects.

359
00:12:50,359 --> 00:12:52,349
So getting them online.

360
00:12:52,349 --> 00:12:56,785
This is the good way to
preserve them right?

361
00:12:56,785 --> 00:12:59,695
To a street.
Fascinating from

362
00:12:59,695 --> 00:13:01,059
a variety of perspectives.

363
00:13:01,059 --> 00:13:04,180
And that's a good
illustration

364
00:13:04,180 --> 00:13:05,620
to why this collection has

365
00:13:05,620 --> 00:13:07,329
such an interdisciplinary
interests.

366
00:13:07,329 --> 00:13:08,919
I mean, anyone interested

367
00:13:08,919 --> 00:13:11,619
in early chemical
compounds,

368
00:13:11,619 --> 00:13:13,090
early plastics, the history

369
00:13:13,090 --> 00:13:14,589
here to have a
physical object.

370
00:13:14,589 --> 00:13:15,909
It's one thing
to read about

371
00:13:15,909 --> 00:13:17,800
how they broke down,

372
00:13:17,800 --> 00:13:19,225
but to actually see it.

373
00:13:19,225 --> 00:13:21,219
I know when I came out
to storage and psi,

374
00:13:21,219 --> 00:13:23,799
you take us out of
the box and look,

375
00:13:23,799 --> 00:13:25,420
the tissue paper
was literally

376
00:13:25,420 --> 00:13:27,525
brittle and
shattering goes to

377
00:13:27,525 --> 00:13:29,410
such a fascinating lesson

378
00:13:29,410 --> 00:13:31,360
in what's going
on chemically.

379
00:13:31,360 --> 00:13:32,949
So I feel like

380
00:13:32,949 --> 00:13:35,129
this is a really
great example.

381
00:13:35,129 --> 00:13:36,290
Some of the
other cones that

382
00:13:36,290 --> 00:13:37,474
are made of this material,

383
00:13:37,474 --> 00:13:39,290
actually wetness
on the surface

384
00:13:39,290 --> 00:13:40,925
from what's leeching out.

385
00:13:40,925 --> 00:13:45,120
It's fascinating and
very disturbing.

386
00:13:46,240 --> 00:13:48,755
Other objects in
the collection

387
00:13:48,755 --> 00:13:51,125
are treasures of
visual information.

388
00:13:51,125 --> 00:13:52,429
Even if we don't
know who haunt them,

389
00:13:52,429 --> 00:13:54,454
Don't know who
unfair stress.

390
00:13:54,454 --> 00:13:57,799
But it's a beautiful
example of

391
00:13:57,799 --> 00:14:02,360
asymmetrical
styles about 1880.

392
00:14:02,360 --> 00:14:04,430
It's called a natural form

393
00:14:04,430 --> 00:14:06,320
because it sort of
hugs the body and

394
00:14:06,320 --> 00:14:08,389
this kind of
hourglass shape

395
00:14:08,389 --> 00:14:09,859
doesn't really
have a bustle,

396
00:14:09,859 --> 00:14:13,144
it just has a slight
added on bump.

397
00:14:13,144 --> 00:14:14,764
But everything
about this dresses

398
00:14:14,764 --> 00:14:16,190
asymmetrical.

399
00:14:16,190 --> 00:14:18,260
It is a two-part garment.

400
00:14:18,260 --> 00:14:20,810
The overdress goes
from torso too,

401
00:14:20,810 --> 00:14:22,879
about just above the ankle.

402
00:14:22,879 --> 00:14:23,450
As you can see,

403
00:14:23,450 --> 00:14:25,969
that that Han
finishes on an angle.

404
00:14:25,969 --> 00:14:27,949
There is an under scourge

405
00:14:27,949 --> 00:14:30,244
that is foreign
to the waist.

406
00:14:30,244 --> 00:14:33,619
And this one garment

407
00:14:33,619 --> 00:14:34,820
and has so many

408
00:14:34,820 --> 00:14:36,650
design techniques
and ideas on it.

409
00:14:36,650 --> 00:14:40,169
There is no trim
except for the Ribbon.

410
00:14:40,470 --> 00:14:43,240
Flowers are roses,
whatever you want to.

411
00:14:43,240 --> 00:14:45,489
There's some
rosettes in both.

412
00:14:45,489 --> 00:14:47,529
Everything on this dress is

413
00:14:47,529 --> 00:14:50,079
either a brown taffeta silk

414
00:14:50,079 --> 00:14:52,749
or around silks Hatton.

415
00:14:52,749 --> 00:14:55,405
And one decorates
the other.

416
00:14:55,405 --> 00:14:57,850
And they're
using the fabric

417
00:14:57,850 --> 00:14:59,110
itself and the way it

418
00:14:59,110 --> 00:15:01,269
reflects the light as

419
00:15:01,269 --> 00:15:03,070
an element of the design.

420
00:15:03,070 --> 00:15:05,409
Because if you take
some fabric that has

421
00:15:05,409 --> 00:15:07,960
a certain sheen and
put it on angle,

422
00:15:07,960 --> 00:15:09,640
it's going to reflect
light differently.

423
00:15:09,640 --> 00:15:10,029
One of

424
00:15:10,029 --> 00:15:11,769
the fascinating things
about this stresses

425
00:15:11,769 --> 00:15:13,779
the under skirt only has

426
00:15:13,779 --> 00:15:15,759
the expensive fabric on it

427
00:15:15,759 --> 00:15:18,519
where it shows beneath
the oversight.

428
00:15:18,519 --> 00:15:21,929
And the rest of it is
just plain old cotton.

429
00:15:21,929 --> 00:15:24,019
And that is

430
00:15:24,019 --> 00:15:26,450
such a wonderful
example of the kind of

431
00:15:26,450 --> 00:15:28,010
approach to material and

432
00:15:28,010 --> 00:15:30,814
making that was evident
in this period.

433
00:15:30,814 --> 00:15:32,945
This is a professionally
made dress.

434
00:15:32,945 --> 00:15:34,249
Everything about this is

435
00:15:34,249 --> 00:15:35,944
just beautifully finished.

436
00:15:35,944 --> 00:15:39,484
All of the corners are
perfectly metered,

437
00:15:39,484 --> 00:15:41,960
perfectly set,

438
00:15:41,960 --> 00:15:45,305
and it's just a treasure
I call distressed.

439
00:15:45,305 --> 00:15:47,210
You kind of develop
nicknames for things.

440
00:15:47,210 --> 00:15:49,324
And to me I call this
dress the brown star.

441
00:15:49,324 --> 00:15:50,900
When you think of brown
dress, that's boring,

442
00:15:50,900 --> 00:15:51,530
but there's nothing

443
00:15:51,530 --> 00:15:52,939
boring about
the assignment.

444
00:15:52,939 --> 00:15:54,964
Here's a view of the train

445
00:15:54,964 --> 00:15:56,149
that goes with
address again,

446
00:15:56,149 --> 00:15:57,529
you can see where

447
00:15:57,529 --> 00:16:00,019
the cotton cuts down.
Why would you do that?

448
00:16:00,019 --> 00:16:01,339
Because you have
the overdress

449
00:16:01,339 --> 00:16:02,300
there and in fact,

450
00:16:02,300 --> 00:16:04,789
there are little buttons
that holds the 2s.

451
00:16:04,789 --> 00:16:06,904
They're so you'll
never see the cotton

452
00:16:06,904 --> 00:16:10,250
at ingenuity at bat
and the Thrift.

453
00:16:10,250 --> 00:16:12,484
Nothing while they were

454
00:16:12,484 --> 00:16:14,780
lapis, but those please.

455
00:16:14,780 --> 00:16:17,209
Pay attention to
detail base for

456
00:16:17,209 --> 00:16:19,850
still economical about
the use of the fabric.

457
00:16:19,850 --> 00:16:21,890
The absolutely that muscle

458
00:16:21,890 --> 00:16:23,419
would have been more.

459
00:16:23,419 --> 00:16:25,220
It's an integral
bustle. It's sewn into

460
00:16:25,220 --> 00:16:26,540
just basically a layer of

461
00:16:26,540 --> 00:16:28,609
tweets stacked
on each other.

462
00:16:28,609 --> 00:16:30,664
But right now
it's pretty good.

463
00:16:30,664 --> 00:16:32,119
It would've had
more body, but

464
00:16:32,119 --> 00:16:32,959
that the dress doesn't

465
00:16:32,959 --> 00:16:33,919
really have a big muscle.

466
00:16:33,919 --> 00:16:37,565
It has more, if it
was just a great,

467
00:16:37,565 --> 00:16:39,979
which is a little
bit off to one side,

468
00:16:39,979 --> 00:16:41,450
it's wrapped
around to insight.

469
00:16:41,450 --> 00:16:44,090
It's just a
fascinating garment.

470
00:16:44,090 --> 00:16:46,370
From the Construction
Perspective

471
00:16:46,370 --> 00:16:48,725
and the design perspective.

472
00:16:48,725 --> 00:16:52,280
And like I said,

473
00:16:52,280 --> 00:16:54,515
we don't know who
wore this dress.

474
00:16:54,515 --> 00:16:56,059
A lot of the records
that were part of

475
00:16:56,059 --> 00:16:57,259
the original
collection didn't

476
00:16:57,259 --> 00:16:58,819
make the transition
to the museum.

477
00:16:58,819 --> 00:17:01,190
So there's been
a good bit of

478
00:17:01,190 --> 00:17:03,245
detective work to go on.

479
00:17:03,245 --> 00:17:04,819
But this is a great
example of what I

480
00:17:04,819 --> 00:17:07,370
mean by the professional.

481
00:17:07,370 --> 00:17:09,319
Finish. If you can
zoom in on that,

482
00:17:09,319 --> 00:17:10,565
that point on that,

483
00:17:10,565 --> 00:17:14,435
that that daga shape
is absolutely Chris.

484
00:17:14,435 --> 00:17:15,829
That is the work of

485
00:17:15,829 --> 00:17:17,030
somebody who knows
what they're

486
00:17:17,030 --> 00:17:19,670
doing and have been doing
it for a long time.

487
00:17:19,670 --> 00:17:20,749
I Have a Dream,

488
00:17:20,749 --> 00:17:21,920
One of these days
of patterning,

489
00:17:21,920 --> 00:17:23,750
Let's dress because
it is so fascinating,

490
00:17:23,750 --> 00:17:26,925
but I think I may
not ever get there.

491
00:17:26,925 --> 00:17:29,229
Good winter project.

492
00:17:29,229 --> 00:17:31,884
Practical years like
they never augments RC.

493
00:17:31,884 --> 00:17:33,309
Yeah. But here
actually let me

494
00:17:33,309 --> 00:17:34,689
the lining of that is

495
00:17:34,689 --> 00:17:39,084
that same polished cotton
that we saw before.

496
00:17:39,084 --> 00:17:41,710
They're not going to
waste expensive fabric

497
00:17:41,710 --> 00:17:43,524
where it's not
going to be seen.

498
00:17:43,524 --> 00:17:46,989
And in contrast to

499
00:17:46,989 --> 00:17:50,785
this dress is another
dress that we have,

500
00:17:50,785 --> 00:17:52,600
which is a
homemade garment.

501
00:17:52,600 --> 00:17:54,429
This was born in
summer's worth,

502
00:17:54,429 --> 00:17:57,820
New Hampshire by likely

503
00:17:57,820 --> 00:18:00,279
made also by a woman
named Celeste yes.

504
00:18:00,279 --> 00:18:02,890
Freeman. She
was the wife of

505
00:18:02,890 --> 00:18:04,764
the one of the
mid-level managers

506
00:18:04,764 --> 00:18:06,489
off the local textile mill.

507
00:18:06,489 --> 00:18:10,020
And they moved to
summer's worth in 1870.

508
00:18:10,020 --> 00:18:13,460
And she, this dress

509
00:18:13,460 --> 00:18:15,289
at a distance looks great,

510
00:18:15,289 --> 00:18:17,089
but the closer
you look at it,

511
00:18:17,089 --> 00:18:19,100
the more you go,

512
00:18:19,100 --> 00:18:20,389
what did she do?

513
00:18:20,389 --> 00:18:26,390
Their flanks are the trim.

514
00:18:26,390 --> 00:18:28,519
Our very badly done.

515
00:18:28,519 --> 00:18:29,870
She didn't leave
in the fabric,

516
00:18:29,870 --> 00:18:32,450
so it kinda folks
over on itself.

517
00:18:32,450 --> 00:18:36,304
The, the pleats are uneven.

518
00:18:36,304 --> 00:18:42,244
In skirts don't
quite hang right.

519
00:18:42,244 --> 00:18:43,639
There's, there isn't a

520
00:18:43,639 --> 00:18:45,140
floor length under sqrt

521
00:18:45,140 --> 00:18:48,874
and then a a mid calf
length over skirts,

522
00:18:48,874 --> 00:18:54,020
and then an apron.

523
00:18:54,020 --> 00:18:56,690
Third skirt that
wraps around them,

524
00:18:56,690 --> 00:18:57,920
the bodies and the color

525
00:18:57,920 --> 00:18:59,960
itself is another piece.

526
00:18:59,960 --> 00:19:01,460
That color has this

527
00:19:01,460 --> 00:19:04,399
lovely tweeted edge to it.

528
00:19:04,399 --> 00:19:06,620
It really what set off
the face beautifully.

529
00:19:06,620 --> 00:19:07,579
And then fleets in

530
00:19:07,579 --> 00:19:08,779
the photo called
nice athletes.

531
00:19:08,779 --> 00:19:10,279
They all point in
one direction.

532
00:19:10,279 --> 00:19:13,459
There are a set
of box pleats in

533
00:19:13,459 --> 00:19:16,010
the back which should

534
00:19:16,010 --> 00:19:18,605
be centered except
she missed.

535
00:19:18,605 --> 00:19:21,770
It is not that

536
00:19:21,770 --> 00:19:23,825
only had no good
view of that buffet.

537
00:19:23,825 --> 00:19:27,275
Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. But but

538
00:19:27,275 --> 00:19:29,509
the pleats aren't
evenly set.

539
00:19:29,509 --> 00:19:32,029
They're not evenly edged
with the contrast.

540
00:19:32,029 --> 00:19:33,890
It's just as odd.

541
00:19:33,890 --> 00:19:35,539
She didn't know
what she was doing,

542
00:19:35,539 --> 00:19:37,954
but she had a
certain status

543
00:19:37,954 --> 00:19:40,280
and she knew what that
should look like.

544
00:19:40,280 --> 00:19:41,915
And she went for it.

545
00:19:41,915 --> 00:19:44,285
And that says a lot about

546
00:19:44,285 --> 00:19:46,879
her and what's available

547
00:19:46,879 --> 00:19:48,844
to women at the time.

548
00:19:48,844 --> 00:19:50,630
To, to, to literally

549
00:19:50,630 --> 00:19:52,864
fashion their
own identities.

550
00:19:52,864 --> 00:19:54,770
And you can have

551
00:19:54,770 --> 00:19:57,259
someone wearing
professionally made down,

552
00:19:57,259 --> 00:19:58,880
but it might very
well be sharing

553
00:19:58,880 --> 00:20:00,619
the street for
someone who tried

554
00:20:00,619 --> 00:20:02,329
to get the same effect

555
00:20:02,329 --> 00:20:03,920
by making it themselves.

556
00:20:03,920 --> 00:20:05,479
By this point, you
have sewing machines

557
00:20:05,479 --> 00:20:07,834
available for domestic use.

558
00:20:07,834 --> 00:20:10,610
Fashion got fancier as

559
00:20:10,610 --> 00:20:12,139
a result because
all these pleats in

560
00:20:12,139 --> 00:20:13,879
trims were work easier to

561
00:20:13,879 --> 00:20:14,750
do now that you have

562
00:20:14,750 --> 00:20:16,355
a machine to do
them for you.

563
00:20:16,355 --> 00:20:19,534
Went faster than listening

564
00:20:19,534 --> 00:20:21,575
to the untrained eye ETA.

565
00:20:21,575 --> 00:20:24,170
She didn't pretty fine.

566
00:20:24,170 --> 00:20:26,299
Somebody if you know, if

567
00:20:26,299 --> 00:20:27,409
you know, sewing you go.

568
00:20:27,409 --> 00:20:30,920
What? I think the
most egregious one

569
00:20:30,920 --> 00:20:31,819
is the button
holes that are

570
00:20:31,819 --> 00:20:32,809
too smart for the buttons,

571
00:20:32,809 --> 00:20:35,029
which will cause damage to

572
00:20:35,029 --> 00:20:36,094
both the buttons and

573
00:20:36,094 --> 00:20:38,465
two bottommost themselves.

574
00:20:38,465 --> 00:20:41,525
She would she before
she covered them,

575
00:20:41,525 --> 00:20:43,444
we have a quick
question from the

576
00:20:43,444 --> 00:20:45,109
joint where there are

577
00:20:45,109 --> 00:20:47,839
patterns freeze dry
that fancy dresses

578
00:20:47,839 --> 00:20:51,679
or it will store
of the sort.

579
00:20:51,679 --> 00:20:53,540
You had fashion magazines

580
00:20:53,540 --> 00:20:55,355
that would show you
fashion plates,

581
00:20:55,355 --> 00:20:56,719
which were the ideas on

582
00:20:56,719 --> 00:20:58,804
how you can decorate
your address.

583
00:20:58,804 --> 00:21:04,040
Patterns were very,
very, very plain.

584
00:21:04,040 --> 00:21:04,879
They didn't really

585
00:21:04,879 --> 00:21:06,050
even give you instructions.

586
00:21:06,050 --> 00:21:07,760
It was the general shape.

587
00:21:07,760 --> 00:21:10,295
And then it was
up to you to

588
00:21:10,295 --> 00:21:11,540
put it together and figure

589
00:21:11,540 --> 00:21:12,904
out how you want
to trim it.

590
00:21:12,904 --> 00:21:15,184
So you could take the same,

591
00:21:15,184 --> 00:21:16,579
that same shape
that's either out of

592
00:21:16,579 --> 00:21:18,110
a magazine or buy.

593
00:21:18,110 --> 00:21:19,640
Now you do have
the beginning of

594
00:21:19,640 --> 00:21:21,065
a pattern industry with

595
00:21:21,065 --> 00:21:24,119
rhetoric and the calls.

596
00:21:24,520 --> 00:21:27,139
And if you give that
same pattern to

597
00:21:27,139 --> 00:21:27,919
two different people,

598
00:21:27,919 --> 00:21:28,819
to ten different people,

599
00:21:28,819 --> 00:21:29,990
you'd get ten
different dresses

600
00:21:29,990 --> 00:21:30,980
because each one with

601
00:21:30,980 --> 00:21:34,549
me doing different
interpretation.

602
00:21:34,549 --> 00:21:36,140
So not a pattern the way

603
00:21:36,140 --> 00:21:38,000
we really think
of it today.

604
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:39,710
Today's patterns
really hold

605
00:21:39,710 --> 00:21:40,804
your hand the whole way,

606
00:21:40,804 --> 00:21:44,134
and that just is not
the case at this point.

607
00:21:44,134 --> 00:21:46,220
The other thing
this was, this was

608
00:21:46,220 --> 00:21:48,079
sewn using an early
sewing machine,

609
00:21:48,079 --> 00:21:49,220
a chain stitch machine.

610
00:21:49,220 --> 00:21:50,630
So the skirt, for example,

611
00:21:50,630 --> 00:21:52,129
had a lot of Prepare

612
00:21:52,129 --> 00:21:53,059
needed because the seams

613
00:21:53,059 --> 00:21:53,930
have completely let go.

614
00:21:53,930 --> 00:21:55,654
Or if you think of
pet food or potatoes,

615
00:21:55,654 --> 00:21:57,020
when you pull
that one thread

616
00:21:57,020 --> 00:21:57,829
and the whole thing,

617
00:21:57,829 --> 00:22:00,020
the whole line of
stitches comes away.

618
00:22:00,020 --> 00:22:01,819
That's what this
dress was made with.

619
00:22:01,819 --> 00:22:05,525
So little bit
dangerous. Yeah.

620
00:22:05,525 --> 00:22:09,484
Alright. So yeah,
the next one,

621
00:22:09,484 --> 00:22:11,584
we do know who
this came from.

622
00:22:11,584 --> 00:22:13,369
It was donated to

623
00:22:13,369 --> 00:22:17,495
the museum by
Walter Peterson,

624
00:22:17,495 --> 00:22:20,869
who is who was

625
00:22:20,869 --> 00:22:22,504
not only a governor
of the state,

626
00:22:22,504 --> 00:22:23,929
but he also as President of

627
00:22:23,929 --> 00:22:25,820
the University
of Turin and had

628
00:22:25,820 --> 00:22:27,994
a very illustrious career.

629
00:22:27,994 --> 00:22:30,379
And this was the dress

630
00:22:30,379 --> 00:22:33,439
that his grandmother
wore when

631
00:22:33,439 --> 00:22:34,460
she got married

632
00:22:34,460 --> 00:22:35,689
because wedding
dresses were not

633
00:22:35,689 --> 00:22:39,305
necessarily white
insect for most people,

634
00:22:39,305 --> 00:22:41,359
they weren't because
this is too expensive

635
00:22:41,359 --> 00:22:43,715
to have a single
use garment.

636
00:22:43,715 --> 00:22:49,324
Joanna was an immigrant
from Denmark,

637
00:22:49,324 --> 00:22:54,755
and she arrived in
Concord, Massachusetts,

638
00:22:54,755 --> 00:22:58,219
in 1893, married a fellow

639
00:22:58,219 --> 00:22:59,810
emigrate who had been

640
00:22:59,810 --> 00:23:01,249
here for most of his life.

641
00:23:01,249 --> 00:23:02,809
He was by then
a cabinet maker

642
00:23:02,809 --> 00:23:04,444
and national and
New Hampshire.

643
00:23:04,444 --> 00:23:07,219
They had one-child Walter.

644
00:23:07,219 --> 00:23:09,469
And Walter was in turn,

645
00:23:09,469 --> 00:23:12,079
the father of the
Bolter Peterson,

646
00:23:12,079 --> 00:23:14,435
who gave us this dress.

647
00:23:14,435 --> 00:23:16,295
And it's just a
lovely example

648
00:23:16,295 --> 00:23:18,620
of a good address

649
00:23:18,620 --> 00:23:20,120
really which does
what for many women,

650
00:23:20,120 --> 00:23:21,410
wedding dresses where she

651
00:23:21,410 --> 00:23:22,429
could have warned him

652
00:23:22,429 --> 00:23:25,220
later to church or to
special functions.

653
00:23:25,220 --> 00:23:26,930
She would've had avail and

654
00:23:26,930 --> 00:23:28,039
advocates who marker as

655
00:23:28,039 --> 00:23:29,450
a bride when she
works with that,

656
00:23:29,450 --> 00:23:30,889
but that's really about it.

657
00:23:30,889 --> 00:23:33,725
And the lovely thing
about this dress is,

658
00:23:33,725 --> 00:23:35,720
I don't know if she
made it herself

659
00:23:35,720 --> 00:23:37,624
or if it was purchased
because by now,

660
00:23:37,624 --> 00:23:39,779
purchased clothing
was a thing.

661
00:23:39,779 --> 00:23:42,744
But it is two pieces.

662
00:23:42,744 --> 00:23:44,290
It is the skirt
and the bodies,

663
00:23:44,290 --> 00:23:46,570
and every closure isn't
such a place that she

664
00:23:46,570 --> 00:23:49,735
could have dressed
herself in Jerusalem?

665
00:23:49,735 --> 00:23:52,480
Everything is either
in the front or

666
00:23:52,480 --> 00:23:54,579
does the one button or
a hook in the back for

667
00:23:54,579 --> 00:23:56,799
the skirt because
she didn't have made

668
00:23:56,799 --> 00:23:59,425
she how to do this herself.

669
00:23:59,425 --> 00:24:01,405
And everything
on this dress is

670
00:24:01,405 --> 00:24:03,804
decoration with
the fabric itself.

671
00:24:03,804 --> 00:24:06,610
So this lovely detail
on the sleeve,

672
00:24:06,610 --> 00:24:07,990
that is a separate piece of

673
00:24:07,990 --> 00:24:09,399
fabric that has been

674
00:24:09,399 --> 00:24:10,930
pleaded and gathered and

675
00:24:10,930 --> 00:24:12,609
then sewn into the
top of the sleeve,

676
00:24:12,609 --> 00:24:15,550
had M2 the sleeve
itself above the elbow,

677
00:24:15,550 --> 00:24:17,679
but otherwise it's
floating pretty free.

678
00:24:17,679 --> 00:24:21,279
The skirt has some
details of rushing.

679
00:24:21,279 --> 00:24:23,575
But for the most part,

680
00:24:23,575 --> 00:24:25,990
the fabric is left plane.

681
00:24:25,990 --> 00:24:28,164
The cuff has a
bit of pleading.

682
00:24:28,164 --> 00:24:30,549
There's a little
more pleading

683
00:24:30,549 --> 00:24:32,589
elsewhere on the
Buddhists as well,

684
00:24:32,589 --> 00:24:33,669
but really it is

685
00:24:33,669 --> 00:24:35,920
a fairly straightforward
garment.

686
00:24:35,920 --> 00:24:38,034
It's beauty is in
the tailoring.

687
00:24:38,034 --> 00:24:40,689
And Sarah, we went through

688
00:24:40,689 --> 00:24:44,260
earlier photograph
of thread count.

689
00:24:44,260 --> 00:24:45,820
I wanted to add
that the garments

690
00:24:45,820 --> 00:24:48,309
Have you

691
00:24:48,309 --> 00:24:49,570
don't necessarily have
to go back to it,

692
00:24:49,570 --> 00:24:52,420
but garments of the
garment, photographs,

693
00:24:52,420 --> 00:24:54,804
they all have a thread
count image as well,

694
00:24:54,804 --> 00:24:56,664
so that you can get
a close up look

695
00:24:56,664 --> 00:24:58,959
with measurement of what,

696
00:24:58,959 --> 00:25:00,519
what that fabric
actually looks like,

697
00:25:00,519 --> 00:25:02,235
the scale of what
you're seeing in O.

698
00:25:02,235 --> 00:25:05,390
And that too is
useful to scholars.

699
00:25:06,060 --> 00:25:08,859
I think that was really
generous inclusion.

700
00:25:08,859 --> 00:25:10,029
I remember when we first

701
00:25:10,029 --> 00:25:11,674
started working in
the we're sending

702
00:25:11,674 --> 00:25:13,570
photos to me and we

703
00:25:13,570 --> 00:25:15,534
were compiling
the metadata and

704
00:25:15,534 --> 00:25:17,680
I'm just working
on the backend

705
00:25:17,680 --> 00:25:20,289
to make this here as it is.

706
00:25:20,289 --> 00:25:22,509
I was originally confused

707
00:25:22,509 --> 00:25:24,129
by these thread
count Mencius and I

708
00:25:24,129 --> 00:25:25,824
assumed that they
were working shots of

709
00:25:25,824 --> 00:25:27,639
yours that you hadn't
mentoring them.

710
00:25:27,639 --> 00:25:30,430
And then, first now
Louisburg users,

711
00:25:30,430 --> 00:25:32,380
there are thrilled
that you went

712
00:25:32,380 --> 00:25:34,719
about level of
attention to detail.

713
00:25:34,719 --> 00:25:36,069
Thankfully, don't sit here.

714
00:25:36,069 --> 00:25:37,430
Really neat. Yeah, yeah.

715
00:25:37,430 --> 00:25:39,250
Well then we have

716
00:25:39,250 --> 00:25:41,485
another question
from the Chewa.

717
00:25:41,485 --> 00:25:45,130
Sums the links look
too long and would get

718
00:25:45,130 --> 00:25:46,510
dirty or ripped
quickly while

719
00:25:46,510 --> 00:25:48,159
walking on dirty streets.

720
00:25:48,159 --> 00:25:51,364
How did dress lengths
deal with that?

721
00:25:51,364 --> 00:25:54,890
Skirts could be muscled up.

722
00:25:54,890 --> 00:25:58,055
Others were, if you
had something that

723
00:25:58,055 --> 00:25:59,765
actually was meant to

724
00:25:59,765 --> 00:26:01,220
be in contact
with the ground,

725
00:26:01,220 --> 00:26:02,599
then you would
wear them over

726
00:26:02,599 --> 00:26:05,465
a petticoat that had
a similar train.

727
00:26:05,465 --> 00:26:07,700
So actually what was
coming in contact

728
00:26:07,700 --> 00:26:08,750
with the ground more than

729
00:26:08,750 --> 00:26:10,220
your dress was, the pico.

730
00:26:10,220 --> 00:26:11,569
And petty coats are

731
00:26:11,569 --> 00:26:12,920
white cotton or linen

732
00:26:12,920 --> 00:26:14,854
and those can be boiled.

733
00:26:14,854 --> 00:26:17,645
So very easy to
wash and clean.

734
00:26:17,645 --> 00:26:19,910
As for the garments
themselves,

735
00:26:19,910 --> 00:26:21,200
usually it was
spot cleaning

736
00:26:21,200 --> 00:26:22,429
things would be like
if they're wet,

737
00:26:22,429 --> 00:26:24,740
they'd be let to dry
and then brushed.

738
00:26:24,740 --> 00:26:27,424
But but in terms of
dragging on the ground,

739
00:26:27,424 --> 00:26:29,479
most of the soil was in

740
00:26:29,479 --> 00:26:32,390
fact on the petticoat,
not under dress.

741
00:26:32,390 --> 00:26:34,099
In such a great question,

742
00:26:34,099 --> 00:26:35,360
and I've wondered it

743
00:26:35,360 --> 00:26:37,609
often and I think
you've been as a kid,

744
00:26:37,609 --> 00:26:39,169
I think maybe I
just had a pension

745
00:26:39,169 --> 00:26:40,955
even then for keeping
things clean.

746
00:26:40,955 --> 00:26:44,900
Islam. But I, I even
assumed in the movies

747
00:26:44,900 --> 00:26:46,940
that must have been
exaggerations because

748
00:26:46,940 --> 00:26:49,039
nobody would risk getting
their hands dirty.

749
00:26:49,039 --> 00:26:51,230
And so then to see some
of these real dresses

750
00:26:51,230 --> 00:26:52,249
and realize that it

751
00:26:52,249 --> 00:26:54,214
isn't accurate
reflect yeah.

752
00:26:54,214 --> 00:26:57,650
June's at the time like
because very often

753
00:26:57,650 --> 00:26:59,164
address would be handed on

754
00:26:59,164 --> 00:27:00,964
from the mistress
to a servant.

755
00:27:00,964 --> 00:27:01,849
And there is actually

756
00:27:01,849 --> 00:27:03,335
a cartoon where they
serve and to say,

757
00:27:03,335 --> 00:27:04,159
you can't go out in

758
00:27:04,159 --> 00:27:05,119
that because
that's going to be

759
00:27:05,119 --> 00:27:07,835
my dress and you're
going to make it dirty.

760
00:27:07,835 --> 00:27:10,459
And then there are
other, other cartoons

761
00:27:10,459 --> 00:27:12,379
where they are using

762
00:27:12,379 --> 00:27:16,520
clothing as the fear thing.

763
00:27:16,520 --> 00:27:17,599
You're going out there

764
00:27:17,599 --> 00:27:18,545
and you're going to drag

765
00:27:18,545 --> 00:27:20,840
everything from the
streets into your house.

766
00:27:20,840 --> 00:27:22,880
Nor although the dog

767
00:27:22,880 --> 00:27:25,399
didn't horse doings
into the house,

768
00:27:25,399 --> 00:27:26,629
all those horrible
things will

769
00:27:26,629 --> 00:27:28,850
become the thing that
makes your child

770
00:27:28,850 --> 00:27:34,850
sick though fashion
she not new, valid.

771
00:27:34,850 --> 00:27:38,209
I wouldn't want to drag
that into those now.

772
00:27:38,209 --> 00:27:40,669
So some of the stories
are happy ones.

773
00:27:40,669 --> 00:27:42,980
Some of the
stories, histories,

774
00:27:42,980 --> 00:27:44,929
and the stories are
about pride or joy,

775
00:27:44,929 --> 00:27:46,864
and this one is
about sadness.

776
00:27:46,864 --> 00:27:49,400
When I first
encountered this dress,

777
00:27:49,400 --> 00:27:51,334
didn't really
know anything by

778
00:27:51,334 --> 00:27:53,809
the donor's name and
did some digging.

779
00:27:53,809 --> 00:27:55,280
And it turns out that

780
00:27:55,280 --> 00:27:59,120
this dress just
likely purchased is

781
00:27:59,120 --> 00:28:00,154
indeed a morning drought

782
00:28:00,154 --> 00:28:01,670
down and it was warned by

783
00:28:01,670 --> 00:28:03,365
made Durham Kirkland In

784
00:28:03,365 --> 00:28:06,229
exit Earth after the
deaths occur first,

785
00:28:06,229 --> 00:28:08,719
third child, one of them

786
00:28:08,719 --> 00:28:11,615
was almost three
months shy of three,

787
00:28:11,615 --> 00:28:14,179
and the other one
was ten months.

788
00:28:14,179 --> 00:28:17,149
Scarlet fever. The first

789
00:28:17,149 --> 00:28:19,415
one died on Christmas Eve,

790
00:28:19,415 --> 00:28:22,025
1900, and the baby

791
00:28:22,025 --> 00:28:25,564
died January first
1901 week later.

792
00:28:25,564 --> 00:28:28,160
To lose to young
children within

793
00:28:28,160 --> 00:28:29,389
a week of each other who

794
00:28:29,389 --> 00:28:31,340
must have been unbearable.

795
00:28:31,340 --> 00:28:35,300
Kirkland eventually
gave the Bowen,

796
00:28:35,300 --> 00:28:37,340
not only this morning gown,

797
00:28:37,340 --> 00:28:39,905
which she had kept
for nearly 30 years

798
00:28:39,905 --> 00:28:42,394
after the fact,
before she gave it.

799
00:28:42,394 --> 00:28:44,224
But also a box, owns

800
00:28:44,224 --> 00:28:46,590
infant and
children's clothing.

801
00:28:46,870 --> 00:28:50,539
And it really
brings an aspect of

802
00:28:50,539 --> 00:28:53,314
life into our present

803
00:28:53,314 --> 00:28:56,090
that most of us don't
experience anymore.

804
00:28:56,090 --> 00:28:58,880
Infant mortality is
not, but it was.

805
00:28:58,880 --> 00:29:01,820
And to have this
garment and to know

806
00:29:01,820 --> 00:29:04,459
that she held onto it
for all those years,

807
00:29:04,459 --> 00:29:07,229
it meant something to her.

808
00:29:08,740 --> 00:29:11,720
The other thing I like
about this dress is,

809
00:29:11,720 --> 00:29:13,625
I'm often asked everybody
was still little.

810
00:29:13,625 --> 00:29:15,229
She was not little.

811
00:29:15,229 --> 00:29:17,750
This was a this was
a middle aged woman.

812
00:29:17,750 --> 00:29:18,725
This was a woman who had

813
00:29:18,725 --> 00:29:20,029
nine children at all.

814
00:29:20,029 --> 00:29:23,090
And and she had the body

815
00:29:23,090 --> 00:29:25,189
of what you would

816
00:29:25,189 --> 00:29:27,020
expect life happened
to her body.

817
00:29:27,020 --> 00:29:29,540
And that dress is not,

818
00:29:29,540 --> 00:29:31,234
you know, there's
tiny little waste.

819
00:29:31,234 --> 00:29:32,690
Many times the garments

820
00:29:32,690 --> 00:29:34,144
that we haven't collections

821
00:29:34,144 --> 00:29:37,054
belonged to the
woman who wore it

822
00:29:37,054 --> 00:29:38,629
when she was young and

823
00:29:38,629 --> 00:29:40,129
before she'd had
children and before,

824
00:29:40,129 --> 00:29:42,470
as I say, white
happened to her body.

825
00:29:42,470 --> 00:29:44,509
So this is a
gorgeous dress.

826
00:29:44,509 --> 00:29:45,515
I mean, it's Silk.

827
00:29:45,515 --> 00:29:48,140
It's got applicative
flowers,

828
00:29:48,140 --> 00:29:50,644
embroidered flowers,
and there's lace.

829
00:29:50,644 --> 00:29:53,300
She was the wife of

830
00:29:53,300 --> 00:29:57,755
a Latin professor at
Phillips Exeter Academy.

831
00:29:57,755 --> 00:30:01,699
They lived an exit or
until his retirement.

832
00:30:01,699 --> 00:30:05,210
She hadn't had a
long and happy life.

833
00:30:05,210 --> 00:30:07,204
But this is from

834
00:30:07,204 --> 00:30:10,940
a dark period.
And we have it.

835
00:30:10,940 --> 00:30:13,700
And to me this garment

836
00:30:13,700 --> 00:30:16,170
touches a lot of things.

837
00:30:17,580 --> 00:30:21,939
It's a beautiful, such a

838
00:30:21,939 --> 00:30:25,825
touching story
in Australia.

839
00:30:25,825 --> 00:30:29,319
When we unveiled
this collection,

840
00:30:29,319 --> 00:30:34,044
we also hosted a
museum exhibition

841
00:30:34,044 --> 00:30:35,320
which is treated curated

842
00:30:35,320 --> 00:30:37,989
and this garment
was on show along

843
00:30:37,989 --> 00:30:41,230
with the two children's
garments and on,

844
00:30:41,230 --> 00:30:42,819
and, as well as a painting

845
00:30:42,819 --> 00:30:44,334
by history, his
daughter Helena,

846
00:30:44,334 --> 00:30:47,274
which really captured the

847
00:30:47,274 --> 00:30:50,500
ghostly quality
of the loss.

848
00:30:50,500 --> 00:30:52,809
And I, we got,

849
00:30:52,809 --> 00:30:53,949
we need to get a copy of

850
00:30:53,949 --> 00:30:55,450
that painting
included in with

851
00:30:55,450 --> 00:30:57,820
this and goodness
cause repository

852
00:30:57,820 --> 00:30:59,239
access to certainly it

853
00:30:59,239 --> 00:31:01,024
tells a really
personal exhale.

854
00:31:01,024 --> 00:31:03,079
She filled in. I I made

855
00:31:03,079 --> 00:31:04,730
the discovery of the
story of the dress

856
00:31:04,730 --> 00:31:06,680
on Mother's Day
of alphas times.

857
00:31:06,680 --> 00:31:08,299
And when I told
her about this,

858
00:31:08,299 --> 00:31:10,880
she she just
was moved to do

859
00:31:10,880 --> 00:31:12,470
this painting
and it's a ghost

860
00:31:12,470 --> 00:31:14,525
that the clothes
are accurate,

861
00:31:14,525 --> 00:31:17,389
but the hands and
heads-up ghostly.

862
00:31:17,389 --> 00:31:20,000
And that just really that

863
00:31:20,000 --> 00:31:22,519
but it really clearly

864
00:31:22,519 --> 00:31:25,204
got to her too and spoke.

865
00:31:25,204 --> 00:31:27,350
And that's really the
power of these things.

866
00:31:27,350 --> 00:31:29,600
People experience
their lives

867
00:31:29,600 --> 00:31:30,845
in close they have,

868
00:31:30,845 --> 00:31:33,665
and that doesn't
end when they end.

869
00:31:33,665 --> 00:31:36,395
That's still part of this.

870
00:31:36,395 --> 00:31:40,280
But I think we

871
00:31:40,280 --> 00:31:43,259
have another question
on the chat.

872
00:31:43,300 --> 00:31:45,709
It looks like a dress
like that would

873
00:31:45,709 --> 00:31:47,419
take a lot of time to make.

874
00:31:47,419 --> 00:31:49,460
Would they have had
it made special

875
00:31:49,460 --> 00:31:51,830
or wear dresses
like that sort of

876
00:31:51,830 --> 00:31:53,960
already available for
this would have been

877
00:31:53,960 --> 00:31:58,595
available possibly
fitted locally?

878
00:31:58,595 --> 00:32:00,710
I don't I don't

879
00:32:00,710 --> 00:32:06,454
know the precise
answer. I can't know.

880
00:32:06,454 --> 00:32:07,789
There is no label in it,

881
00:32:07,789 --> 00:32:09,019
but labels wouldn't
necessarily

882
00:32:09,019 --> 00:32:11,039
part of clothing.

883
00:32:11,470 --> 00:32:15,785
The tailoring is
very carefully done.

884
00:32:15,785 --> 00:32:18,260
The trim is all
machine made and

885
00:32:18,260 --> 00:32:19,460
applied so that
could have gone

886
00:32:19,460 --> 00:32:21,110
very quickly as possible.

887
00:32:21,110 --> 00:32:23,045
She had it made
specifically.

888
00:32:23,045 --> 00:32:25,400
But by now, by this point,

889
00:32:25,400 --> 00:32:27,095
you also definitely had

890
00:32:27,095 --> 00:32:30,209
clothing available
off the back.

891
00:32:30,520 --> 00:32:32,570
It's more difficult
for women

892
00:32:32,570 --> 00:32:34,295
because we have
these pesky curves.

893
00:32:34,295 --> 00:32:38,600
But still, we don't
know if this was

894
00:32:38,600 --> 00:32:43,709
made specifically for
her either as possible.

895
00:32:44,560 --> 00:32:50,090
And we have different
kind of a story here.

896
00:32:50,090 --> 00:32:52,684
This one is a
rare survivor.

897
00:32:52,684 --> 00:32:56,209
It's a working dress
from about 1800.

898
00:32:56,209 --> 00:32:58,459
It has elements of
the fashion to come,

899
00:32:58,459 --> 00:32:59,930
which has the high waste.

900
00:32:59,930 --> 00:33:01,414
And it also has elements

901
00:33:01,414 --> 00:33:02,779
of the fashion going out,

902
00:33:02,779 --> 00:33:05,419
which is more of
a draped garment.

903
00:33:05,419 --> 00:33:07,220
In fact, the if

904
00:33:07,220 --> 00:33:09,394
she were to hold
her arms out,

905
00:33:09,394 --> 00:33:11,209
homicides in a T-shape and

906
00:33:11,209 --> 00:33:13,040
see that the Fabric looks,

907
00:33:13,040 --> 00:33:14,150
you know, it's in line with

908
00:33:14,150 --> 00:33:16,819
the stripes of the dress.

909
00:33:16,819 --> 00:33:19,684
At that point. Striped
doesn't go down,

910
00:33:19,684 --> 00:33:23,030
which means a fabric is
draped over her body.

911
00:33:23,030 --> 00:33:26,150
To nicknames to do
the construction.

912
00:33:26,150 --> 00:33:28,490
The fabric

913
00:33:28,490 --> 00:33:30,259
here actually it's
very interesting.

914
00:33:30,259 --> 00:33:31,684
It is a homespun.

915
00:33:31,684 --> 00:33:33,410
And on the Loon,

916
00:33:33,410 --> 00:33:36,410
the stripe with
woven side to side.

917
00:33:36,410 --> 00:33:37,760
So the person who made

918
00:33:37,760 --> 00:33:39,364
this dress took
that fabric,

919
00:33:39,364 --> 00:33:41,599
cut it apart into lengths.

920
00:33:41,599 --> 00:33:43,445
So those lengths together

921
00:33:43,445 --> 00:33:44,960
are rotated the
whole thing so

922
00:33:44,960 --> 00:33:46,579
that the stripes ran
up the body instead

923
00:33:46,579 --> 00:33:49,290
of across the body
and need the dress.

924
00:33:49,360 --> 00:33:54,230
But this is a very much
work at a garment.

925
00:33:54,230 --> 00:33:55,579
It has no closures
and how it

926
00:33:55,579 --> 00:33:57,229
would've been
hint and it would

927
00:33:57,229 --> 00:33:59,719
have had the
petticoat stays under

928
00:33:59,719 --> 00:34:02,615
it and a shift.

929
00:34:02,615 --> 00:34:05,029
But there are pulls on it

930
00:34:05,029 --> 00:34:07,474
somewhere and a friend
had been pinned to it.

931
00:34:07,474 --> 00:34:10,969
It has holes from where
it has the pairs,

932
00:34:10,969 --> 00:34:15,829
it has hatches, it
has some remarks.

933
00:34:15,829 --> 00:34:17,420
It's just a
garment that was

934
00:34:17,420 --> 00:34:19,400
born to do the work

935
00:34:19,400 --> 00:34:22,049
among the house that
needed to be done.

936
00:34:22,210 --> 00:34:25,429
That the fullness
of address

937
00:34:25,429 --> 00:34:27,769
really comes from these
triangular panels

938
00:34:27,769 --> 00:34:30,094
inserted on each side
of those panels are

939
00:34:30,094 --> 00:34:32,974
made up out of
pins as pieces.

940
00:34:32,974 --> 00:34:34,684
Just is pieced together.

941
00:34:34,684 --> 00:34:37,159
This is not something
that would ever happen

942
00:34:37,159 --> 00:34:41,165
worn in a fancy situation.

943
00:34:41,165 --> 00:34:43,190
This is a working
government and that kind of

944
00:34:43,190 --> 00:34:44,629
environment very
rarely survive

945
00:34:44,629 --> 00:34:46,039
because it was used up.

946
00:34:46,039 --> 00:34:47,734
It was no longer variable.

947
00:34:47,734 --> 00:34:49,400
Then it got turned
into riots.

948
00:34:49,400 --> 00:34:51,545
But somehow this
ones survive.

949
00:34:51,545 --> 00:34:53,629
And it came from Harvard is

950
00:34:53,629 --> 00:34:56,315
now deflections in Durham.

951
00:34:56,315 --> 00:34:57,830
It's the oldest houses and

952
00:34:57,830 --> 00:35:00,575
escape from the
frost family.

953
00:35:00,575 --> 00:35:05,150
And it's, it's
kind of immortals.

954
00:35:05,150 --> 00:35:10,144
So Geiger, and we're
really fortunate.

955
00:35:10,144 --> 00:35:13,080
Actually it
occurs to me that

956
00:35:13,360 --> 00:35:16,865
you check something.

957
00:35:16,865 --> 00:35:18,559
I'll let, I'll style for

958
00:35:18,559 --> 00:35:20,720
your street and tell
you that I remember

959
00:35:20,720 --> 00:35:22,669
when looking

960
00:35:22,669 --> 00:35:25,175
through our garments
in the collection,

961
00:35:25,175 --> 00:35:27,815
I asked you which was
the most valuable.

962
00:35:27,815 --> 00:35:28,460
And of course, there are

963
00:35:28,460 --> 00:35:29,959
a couple ways to
answer that question,

964
00:35:29,959 --> 00:35:31,040
but I was really
stunned that you

965
00:35:31,040 --> 00:35:32,509
said it was this piece.

966
00:35:32,509 --> 00:35:34,790
Yeah. And that's because of

967
00:35:34,790 --> 00:35:38,194
the fact that common
things aren't saved.

968
00:35:38,194 --> 00:35:39,830
I think in many
people's closets

969
00:35:39,830 --> 00:35:42,079
there's couple
fancy dresses,

970
00:35:42,079 --> 00:35:44,344
perhaps something
that was special,

971
00:35:44,344 --> 00:35:46,339
worn one still get
a lot of use and

972
00:35:46,339 --> 00:35:47,450
has a lot of sentimental

973
00:35:47,450 --> 00:35:48,920
value attached to it.

974
00:35:48,920 --> 00:35:50,600
But it's a
garment like this

975
00:35:50,600 --> 00:35:53,795
that really we can
learn a lot about

976
00:35:53,795 --> 00:35:56,000
the user and what was

977
00:35:56,000 --> 00:35:59,195
happening behind the
scenes more commonly.

978
00:35:59,195 --> 00:36:01,640
That makes a really, So in

979
00:36:01,640 --> 00:36:03,274
other clothing collections

980
00:36:03,274 --> 00:36:05,489
out there in the world.

981
00:36:05,980 --> 00:36:07,970
It's pretty remarkable to

982
00:36:07,970 --> 00:36:09,050
have a piece like this.

983
00:36:09,050 --> 00:36:12,064
So we're quite lucky
in quite proud of it.

984
00:36:12,064 --> 00:36:15,364
And a street and went
to great effort to

985
00:36:15,364 --> 00:36:16,894
photograph it carefully and

986
00:36:16,894 --> 00:36:19,619
capture a lot of the
different views.

987
00:36:22,000 --> 00:36:24,710
I didn't like the effort
that they went to

988
00:36:24,710 --> 00:36:27,335
to align the
strikes carefully.

989
00:36:27,335 --> 00:36:29,689
Catches the eye patches.

990
00:36:29,689 --> 00:36:30,950
They get this thing soft.

991
00:36:30,950 --> 00:36:32,029
So once you use, think

992
00:36:32,029 --> 00:36:33,469
of all the stories in that.

993
00:36:33,469 --> 00:36:35,270
And I think they'll

994
00:36:35,270 --> 00:36:36,380
actually probably
made out of

995
00:36:36,380 --> 00:36:38,119
something else
or maybe this is

996
00:36:38,119 --> 00:36:40,340
not the original like
with the swap it,

997
00:36:40,340 --> 00:36:42,199
right where there's
Apache because it

998
00:36:42,199 --> 00:36:44,480
helps patch, a patch.

999
00:36:44,480 --> 00:36:52,720
Wow. What we'll do

1000
00:36:52,720 --> 00:36:54,890
and move on to the
dress if it doesn't.

1001
00:36:54,890 --> 00:36:56,869
Well, yeah, we go.

1002
00:36:56,869 --> 00:36:58,640
So often.

1003
00:36:58,640 --> 00:37:00,320
Things at home
to collections

1004
00:37:00,320 --> 00:37:01,685
has been altered.

1005
00:37:01,685 --> 00:37:03,680
Someone later and family

1006
00:37:03,680 --> 00:37:04,759
founded in the attic and

1007
00:37:04,759 --> 00:37:06,950
much marriage
in town parade.

1008
00:37:06,950 --> 00:37:10,475
This dress originally site,

1009
00:37:10,475 --> 00:37:11,360
I wanted to put it

1010
00:37:11,360 --> 00:37:12,935
in particular
was working on.

1011
00:37:12,935 --> 00:37:15,290
It just looks so sausage.

1012
00:37:15,290 --> 00:37:16,490
I mean, there's no is.

1013
00:37:16,490 --> 00:37:20,225
And it's because
darks actually

1014
00:37:20,225 --> 00:37:23,524
shape the modesty torso

1015
00:37:23,524 --> 00:37:26,039
and Alban, what helps?

1016
00:37:26,590 --> 00:37:29,690
It was impossible
to hang the skirt

1017
00:37:29,690 --> 00:37:30,799
correctly from it because

1018
00:37:30,799 --> 00:37:32,375
his spirit was
partially stoning.

1019
00:37:32,375 --> 00:37:33,499
The guards lay out

1020
00:37:33,499 --> 00:37:35,734
the body alignment anymore.

1021
00:37:35,734 --> 00:37:37,655
But you can see here
in this photograph

1022
00:37:37,655 --> 00:37:38,899
where the dart squirm in

1023
00:37:38,899 --> 00:37:40,190
some cases there was water,

1024
00:37:40,190 --> 00:37:42,650
steam hadn't felt
it really outlines

1025
00:37:42,650 --> 00:37:45,515
where if it had been out.

1026
00:37:45,515 --> 00:37:47,479
And in the case
of this done,

1027
00:37:47,479 --> 00:37:50,284
we got permission from
the museum curator

1028
00:37:50,284 --> 00:37:53,705
to restore it to
its original shape.

1029
00:37:53,705 --> 00:37:55,414
And the difference is,

1030
00:37:55,414 --> 00:37:58,730
and that's suddenly
there's a dress.

1031
00:37:58,730 --> 00:38:03,395
Their waste actually has
the bus chairs hits,

1032
00:38:03,395 --> 00:38:07,040
all of which were occluded
by what happened.

1033
00:38:07,040 --> 00:38:08,990
And that's a different

1034
00:38:08,990 --> 00:38:10,820
silhouette in this way.

1035
00:38:10,820 --> 00:38:14,945
And but more striking
to me is your daring to

1036
00:38:14,945 --> 00:38:17,299
go and find the pinholes

1037
00:38:17,299 --> 00:38:20,120
of the original
seems to enter.

1038
00:38:20,120 --> 00:38:22,339
I think took a lot of

1039
00:38:22,339 --> 00:38:25,309
mock CSU and it was
clearly weren't

1040
00:38:25,309 --> 00:38:28,909
the edge down where

1041
00:38:28,909 --> 00:38:30,230
we asked first
and everything I

1042
00:38:30,230 --> 00:38:32,644
did is completely
reversible.

1043
00:38:32,644 --> 00:38:34,459
That sticks us.
You don't want to

1044
00:38:34,459 --> 00:38:36,619
do anything for permanently

1045
00:38:36,619 --> 00:38:41,000
change development
is that yields y

1046
00:38:41,000 --> 00:38:43,219
then every alteration
is part of

1047
00:38:43,219 --> 00:38:46,295
the story of my racing.

1048
00:38:46,295 --> 00:38:48,769
You're changing
what Kennedy knew

1049
00:38:48,769 --> 00:38:51,919
about what's not
a good choice.

1050
00:38:51,919 --> 00:38:57,289
So the stitches I
placed are documented

1051
00:38:57,289 --> 00:39:00,320
in some kind of maybe get

1052
00:39:00,320 --> 00:39:04,339
a disparate kings centered
without wonderful.

1053
00:39:04,339 --> 00:39:08,135
Yeah. It's really,
it's incredible.

1054
00:39:08,135 --> 00:39:11,239
What am I?

1055
00:39:11,239 --> 00:39:14,240
I'm just noticing the
time in Australia

1056
00:39:14,240 --> 00:39:17,375
and I could talk for
many more hours.

1057
00:39:17,375 --> 00:39:22,700
And there are
1189 photographs

1058
00:39:22,700 --> 00:39:24,514
in total in this
collection.

1059
00:39:24,514 --> 00:39:27,380
Just do is dress
real quick. Oh sure.

1060
00:39:27,380 --> 00:39:28,460
Yet what does our next one,

1061
00:39:28,460 --> 00:39:30,965
what are your beliefs
and excellently thing?

1062
00:39:30,965 --> 00:39:33,415
And that was as far
as like callback

1063
00:39:33,415 --> 00:39:34,339
because I worried that that

1064
00:39:34,339 --> 00:39:35,330
would be where
we we get two.

1065
00:39:35,330 --> 00:39:36,590
But tell me why you want to

1066
00:39:36,590 --> 00:39:38,030
see my mom querying it up.

1067
00:39:38,030 --> 00:39:40,294
We there's a flow cheesy,

1068
00:39:40,294 --> 00:39:45,500
quilted the Sharpe
chief wound.

1069
00:39:45,500 --> 00:39:47,610
It's a picture.

1070
00:39:50,260 --> 00:39:53,940
If you have a fixed
function live.

1071
00:39:54,130 --> 00:39:56,690
It's trying to hide that.

1072
00:39:56,690 --> 00:39:58,714
We don't have to
talk about it now.

1073
00:39:58,714 --> 00:40:00,979
You know where we
can see it easily.

1074
00:40:00,979 --> 00:40:05,070
Hayes and Luria
title gallery.

1075
00:40:05,620 --> 00:40:09,230
There we go.
That's exactly it.

1076
00:40:09,230 --> 00:40:13,205
And, and this,
this garment is

1077
00:40:13,205 --> 00:40:14,629
also from one of the

1078
00:40:14,629 --> 00:40:17,899
early European
families in the state.

1079
00:40:17,899 --> 00:40:19,610
And temporaries.

1080
00:40:19,610 --> 00:40:22,220
Pickering night was
quite the character.

1081
00:40:22,220 --> 00:40:24,440
She was from a family

1082
00:40:24,440 --> 00:40:26,600
that was well
established in Chile,

1083
00:40:26,600 --> 00:40:27,709
didn't do undergo quite

1084
00:40:27,709 --> 00:40:28,759
wrote in New Hampshire,

1085
00:40:28,759 --> 00:40:31,749
her husband, random
fairy. To Newton.

1086
00:40:31,749 --> 00:40:33,189
She's actually buried near

1087
00:40:33,189 --> 00:40:35,469
the party sitting
in rooms and

1088
00:40:35,469 --> 00:40:39,179
mall area under a curve

1089
00:40:39,179 --> 00:40:41,814
as quilted silk
which was imported,

1090
00:40:41,814 --> 00:40:43,539
but it's lined with

1091
00:40:43,539 --> 00:40:45,910
yellow to white check all,

1092
00:40:45,910 --> 00:40:47,140
which is fairly coarse,

1093
00:40:47,140 --> 00:40:49,855
so possibly
produce locally,

1094
00:40:49,855 --> 00:40:51,205
that's not an amino.

1095
00:40:51,205 --> 00:40:53,455
And the dress itself
is also important.

1096
00:40:53,455 --> 00:40:56,439
So you think she
more this in

1097
00:40:56,439 --> 00:40:59,499
the 17 hundreds,
mid 17 hundreds.

1098
00:40:59,499 --> 00:41:01,630
And she's wearing
imported close.

1099
00:41:01,630 --> 00:41:04,075
The silk and the
address itself in

1100
00:41:04,075 --> 00:41:05,559
the fabric of the press

1101
00:41:05,559 --> 00:41:07,090
was imported from India.

1102
00:41:07,090 --> 00:41:08,725
It's a hand printed,

1103
00:41:08,725 --> 00:41:11,260
locked went was

1104
00:41:11,260 --> 00:41:14,554
pretty expensive time
and it's cotton.

1105
00:41:14,554 --> 00:41:17,405
But that was the
new in fabric.

1106
00:41:17,405 --> 00:41:20,779
So here is someone on

1107
00:41:20,779 --> 00:41:24,004
the frontier being
pretty gung fancy.

1108
00:41:24,004 --> 00:41:27,050
And you know, her,

1109
00:41:27,050 --> 00:41:29,239
her descendants
are still an area.

1110
00:41:29,239 --> 00:41:30,740
While not hers director.

1111
00:41:30,740 --> 00:41:32,104
She didn't have
any children, but

1112
00:41:32,104 --> 00:41:33,859
she she lifted

1113
00:41:33,859 --> 00:41:35,360
her niece was also

1114
00:41:35,360 --> 00:41:37,235
called chimpanzee
with her clothing.

1115
00:41:37,235 --> 00:41:39,139
And that's where it comes

1116
00:41:39,139 --> 00:41:42,229
into collection
down that line.

1117
00:41:42,229 --> 00:41:45,364
Okay. And I imagine

1118
00:41:45,364 --> 00:41:48,245
it's thinking about
the donations.

1119
00:41:48,245 --> 00:41:50,855
I we're so grateful
to have them.

1120
00:41:50,855 --> 00:41:52,340
But I have to
assume that some of

1121
00:41:52,340 --> 00:41:53,929
these families who handed

1122
00:41:53,929 --> 00:41:55,565
something like
this down through

1123
00:41:55,565 --> 00:41:57,919
the ages were
hadn't been pretty

1124
00:41:57,919 --> 00:41:59,480
pleased to have
somewhere to

1125
00:41:59,480 --> 00:42:01,220
take it that would
honor it and

1126
00:42:01,220 --> 00:42:02,539
preserve it and now

1127
00:42:02,539 --> 00:42:03,920
also share it
with the world's

1128
00:42:03,920 --> 00:42:08,389
So gifts like bees
certainly go both ways.

1129
00:42:08,389 --> 00:42:10,910
I'm going to call
up very quickly.

1130
00:42:10,910 --> 00:42:13,880
That said it is a
closed collection.

1131
00:42:13,880 --> 00:42:17,404
I know. We're out of space.

1132
00:42:17,404 --> 00:42:20,660
Yeah. Exceptions are
occasionally made,

1133
00:42:20,660 --> 00:42:22,595
but they really have to

1134
00:42:22,595 --> 00:42:27,020
fit remit of it
be tied to Jim,

1135
00:42:27,020 --> 00:42:28,760
I'm sure because
there simply

1136
00:42:28,760 --> 00:42:31,715
isn't the space
to get from one.

1137
00:42:31,715 --> 00:42:33,920
Yeah. So clearly we

1138
00:42:33,920 --> 00:42:35,690
had many more examples

1139
00:42:35,690 --> 00:42:36,769
that we wanted
to talk about

1140
00:42:36,769 --> 00:42:37,789
and we encourage you to

1141
00:42:37,789 --> 00:42:39,425
go into the collection to

1142
00:42:39,425 --> 00:42:40,789
find them for
yourselves and

1143
00:42:40,789 --> 00:42:42,425
reach out if you
have questions.

1144
00:42:42,425 --> 00:42:44,299
But just to tie it back to

1145
00:42:44,299 --> 00:42:47,359
open access and the
scholars repository,

1146
00:42:47,359 --> 00:42:49,849
I wanted to share
this usage map.

1147
00:42:49,849 --> 00:42:52,729
Scholarship repository
is a fantastic tool,

1148
00:42:52,729 --> 00:42:55,369
provides excellent
infographics and

1149
00:42:55,369 --> 00:42:56,600
usability reports

1150
00:42:56,600 --> 00:42:58,819
and Austria, nice
Mrs. went live.

1151
00:42:58,819 --> 00:43:00,049
We are so
delighted to start

1152
00:43:00,049 --> 00:43:01,580
seeing these pinpoints

1153
00:43:01,580 --> 00:43:04,445
on a map of where
stuff was being used.

1154
00:43:04,445 --> 00:43:08,269
And It's just very
satisfying to

1155
00:43:08,269 --> 00:43:10,130
know that our goal
of sharing this

1156
00:43:10,130 --> 00:43:12,650
with the world is
being achieved.

1157
00:43:12,650 --> 00:43:15,244
So over 11 thousand uses,

1158
00:43:15,244 --> 00:43:18,049
seven, over 7
thousand downloads.

1159
00:43:18,049 --> 00:43:19,999
And we do hope to add to

1160
00:43:19,999 --> 00:43:22,684
this project in the future.

1161
00:43:22,684 --> 00:43:24,469
We'll report back and

1162
00:43:24,469 --> 00:43:26,674
forever able fitting that.

1163
00:43:26,674 --> 00:43:29,690
We're sorry to
crunchy for time.

1164
00:43:29,690 --> 00:43:31,910
A quick thanks to this,
the production team,

1165
00:43:31,910 --> 00:43:33,499
there were many
people involved in

1166
00:43:33,499 --> 00:43:35,930
the creation and
the ongoing work.

1167
00:43:35,930 --> 00:43:37,550
So if he thinks all found,

1168
00:43:37,550 --> 00:43:40,324
but if we if anyone
wants to stick around,

1169
00:43:40,324 --> 00:43:42,380
we're happy to
answer questions.

1170
00:43:42,380 --> 00:43:44,480
But thank you again
very much for coming.

1171
00:43:44,480 --> 00:43:45,620
I appreciate your time

1172
00:43:45,620 --> 00:43:48,750
and we're very proud
of this effort.

1173
00:43:49,000 --> 00:43:52,710
Thank you. Thank you.

1174
00:43:53,980 --> 00:43:57,079
Anymore questions
over time, monkey.

1175
00:43:57,079 --> 00:44:00,349
Sorry. I have a
quick question.

1176
00:44:00,349 --> 00:44:01,715
Okay. Thanks, Kristen.

1177
00:44:01,715 --> 00:44:04,549
So I was just
wondering because I

1178
00:44:04,549 --> 00:44:05,630
know that must
take a lot of

1179
00:44:05,630 --> 00:44:07,610
research to really
get to the,

1180
00:44:07,610 --> 00:44:09,469
you know, like who
were this and where

1181
00:44:09,469 --> 00:44:11,239
it would have been worn
and things like that.

1182
00:44:11,239 --> 00:44:12,965
And I was just wondering

1183
00:44:12,965 --> 00:44:15,379
when things are
passed down and step,

1184
00:44:15,379 --> 00:44:17,059
I was thinking that being

1185
00:44:17,059 --> 00:44:18,709
able to see somebody
wearing it like

1186
00:44:18,709 --> 00:44:20,420
in a photograph or a PDF or

1187
00:44:20,420 --> 00:44:22,160
something would be helpful.

1188
00:44:22,160 --> 00:44:23,959
But like if things
are passed down,

1189
00:44:23,959 --> 00:44:25,445
does that make
it really hard

1190
00:44:25,445 --> 00:44:26,839
for people to know

1191
00:44:26,839 --> 00:44:28,969
why originally owned it

1192
00:44:28,969 --> 00:44:31,070
and where it came
from really,

1193
00:44:31,070 --> 00:44:32,420
what's the I guess
if you could

1194
00:44:32,420 --> 00:44:33,860
just give me any
insight on like,

1195
00:44:33,860 --> 00:44:35,269
how do you trace the I'm

1196
00:44:35,269 --> 00:44:39,139
sure in the case of
this collection,

1197
00:44:39,139 --> 00:44:39,889
like I saved them out

1198
00:44:39,889 --> 00:44:41,120
of the original records,

1199
00:44:41,120 --> 00:44:43,550
didn't survive
the transition.

1200
00:44:43,550 --> 00:44:45,320
And sometimes all I have

1201
00:44:45,320 --> 00:44:47,269
is a last name to go by.

1202
00:44:47,269 --> 00:44:48,650
But knowing that things

1203
00:44:48,650 --> 00:44:52,759
came locally and recently,

1204
00:44:52,759 --> 00:44:56,374
going through all of
the original inventory,

1205
00:44:56,374 --> 00:44:58,279
papers that do survive.

1206
00:44:58,279 --> 00:45:00,139
You can piece
together oh, it's

1207
00:45:00,139 --> 00:45:01,249
not just Kirkland.

1208
00:45:01,249 --> 00:45:04,100
It's Mrs. JC Kirkland.

1209
00:45:04,100 --> 00:45:07,579
Okay. I can find a Mr.
Jay secret London,

1210
00:45:07,579 --> 00:45:09,515
figure out who
his wife was.

1211
00:45:09,515 --> 00:45:12,919
And so using resources like

1212
00:45:12,919 --> 00:45:16,700
ancestry and similar
genealogical databases,

1213
00:45:16,700 --> 00:45:20,150
finding census
records and so on,

1214
00:45:20,150 --> 00:45:23,105
that gives me a list of

1215
00:45:23,105 --> 00:45:26,344
potential characters,
if you will.

1216
00:45:26,344 --> 00:45:28,910
And in many cases,

1217
00:45:28,910 --> 00:45:31,384
that is the only
name that comes up.

1218
00:45:31,384 --> 00:45:34,430
So and if it isn't,

1219
00:45:34,430 --> 00:45:38,450
then I have to dig more
deeply than OK, fine.

1220
00:45:38,450 --> 00:45:40,759
There's there's three
different people

1221
00:45:40,759 --> 00:45:42,995
with this potential name.

1222
00:45:42,995 --> 00:45:45,439
Or what what are
their dates?

1223
00:45:45,439 --> 00:45:47,360
What, where, what
do they, do?

1224
00:45:47,360 --> 00:45:48,890
They have a connection
to the university

1225
00:45:48,890 --> 00:45:50,765
because it's
not like Burma.

1226
00:45:50,765 --> 00:45:52,550
Bowen put an ad in

1227
00:45:52,550 --> 00:45:54,784
the paper saying
bringing your close.

1228
00:45:54,784 --> 00:45:57,469
People who had familiarity

1229
00:45:57,469 --> 00:45:58,820
with the department were

1230
00:45:58,820 --> 00:46:01,439
the ones who
gave the quotes.

1231
00:46:01,540 --> 00:46:04,820
So for example, one
of the people who

1232
00:46:04,820 --> 00:46:07,219
gave quite a lot is
Philip Marsden who came

1233
00:46:07,219 --> 00:46:09,604
to you and h as

1234
00:46:09,604 --> 00:46:11,420
a freshman the same year

1235
00:46:11,420 --> 00:46:13,475
that are my
joined his staff.

1236
00:46:13,475 --> 00:46:15,980
He ended up never leaving.

1237
00:46:15,980 --> 00:46:17,510
He ended up being the chair

1238
00:46:17,510 --> 00:46:19,530
of the history department.

1239
00:46:19,870 --> 00:46:24,080
And he had an
interest in clothing,

1240
00:46:24,080 --> 00:46:27,814
and he gave a great deal

1241
00:46:27,814 --> 00:46:31,100
of garments and accessories

1242
00:46:31,100 --> 00:46:35,645
to the museum that
were from his family.

1243
00:46:35,645 --> 00:46:38,179
The the first thing

1244
00:46:38,179 --> 00:46:39,785
I do when I look
at the time it

1245
00:46:39,785 --> 00:46:44,570
is I check to see what
is in the records of.

1246
00:46:44,570 --> 00:46:46,669
I can figure
that out because

1247
00:46:46,669 --> 00:46:48,829
sometimes all I get
is o white shirt.

1248
00:46:48,829 --> 00:46:50,239
Well, that doesn't really
help much. Which of

1249
00:46:50,239 --> 00:46:51,350
these 20 white shirts

1250
00:46:51,350 --> 00:46:52,700
am I talking about here?

1251
00:46:52,700 --> 00:46:56,389
But, but I then
examine the government

1252
00:46:56,389 --> 00:46:58,340
because the way clothes

1253
00:46:58,340 --> 00:47:00,349
were constructed
changed over time.

1254
00:47:00,349 --> 00:47:02,599
And we have very
clear progression

1255
00:47:02,599 --> 00:47:03,709
of what is fashionable,

1256
00:47:03,709 --> 00:47:05,435
especially across
the 19th century,

1257
00:47:05,435 --> 00:47:06,229
which is the bulk

1258
00:47:06,229 --> 00:47:07,519
of what's in
the collection.

1259
00:47:07,519 --> 00:47:10,520
So there's no way that a

1260
00:47:10,520 --> 00:47:15,630
garment made in 1815.

1261
00:47:16,150 --> 00:47:19,610
Can have a date of 150.

1262
00:47:19,610 --> 00:47:21,919
The silhouettes are
completely different.

1263
00:47:21,919 --> 00:47:23,689
There's no way that
something that is

1264
00:47:23,689 --> 00:47:26,660
as light on fabric
use statistics in

1265
00:47:26,660 --> 00:47:29,150
1815 dress can be
something that

1266
00:47:29,150 --> 00:47:30,290
requires a hoop skirt to

1267
00:47:30,290 --> 00:47:33,215
support all the
fabric in 150.

1268
00:47:33,215 --> 00:47:35,179
So I look at the Buddhists

1269
00:47:35,179 --> 00:47:36,560
for how that's
constructed because

1270
00:47:36,560 --> 00:47:38,630
a number of panels and
so on also gives me

1271
00:47:38,630 --> 00:47:39,920
clues that kind of

1272
00:47:39,920 --> 00:47:41,689
buttons the position
of a shoulder.

1273
00:47:41,689 --> 00:47:42,830
It's all these things isn't

1274
00:47:42,830 --> 00:47:43,984
dating information.

1275
00:47:43,984 --> 00:47:45,439
I do look at photographs.

1276
00:47:45,439 --> 00:47:46,895
I do look at paintings

1277
00:47:46,895 --> 00:47:48,965
to find, you know, yes.

1278
00:47:48,965 --> 00:47:50,495
This is something similar,

1279
00:47:50,495 --> 00:47:52,865
very clearly from
the same period.

1280
00:47:52,865 --> 00:47:55,265
And then I go
digging with that,

1281
00:47:55,265 --> 00:47:56,600
that timeframe

1282
00:47:56,600 --> 00:47:58,039
that the dress
itself gives me.

1283
00:47:58,039 --> 00:47:59,464
Then I go digging into

1284
00:47:59,464 --> 00:48:01,114
the genealogical record and

1285
00:48:01,114 --> 00:48:03,049
can make some
determinations when

1286
00:48:03,049 --> 00:48:05,015
I don't have any
donor information or

1287
00:48:05,015 --> 00:48:06,589
new owner information
like with

1288
00:48:06,589 --> 00:48:08,464
the brown dress,
I can't do that.

1289
00:48:08,464 --> 00:48:11,179
But with the
Kirkland stress,

1290
00:48:11,179 --> 00:48:12,920
all the pieces
fell together

1291
00:48:12,920 --> 00:48:15,064
based on the
names that were

1292
00:48:15,064 --> 00:48:17,300
given in the old papers

1293
00:48:17,300 --> 00:48:19,654
and the date that the
dress clearly was.

1294
00:48:19,654 --> 00:48:22,354
And then this one
singular event

1295
00:48:22,354 --> 00:48:24,560
at exactly the right time.

1296
00:48:24,560 --> 00:48:27,379
She had no other losses
at about that time.

1297
00:48:27,379 --> 00:48:29,390
It was just the
children was very

1298
00:48:29,390 --> 00:48:31,520
clear that that's what

1299
00:48:31,520 --> 00:48:33,650
the stress wise and then
to take into context

1300
00:48:33,650 --> 00:48:34,760
to the rest of
her gifts are for

1301
00:48:34,760 --> 00:48:36,200
the children's clothes.

1302
00:48:36,200 --> 00:48:38,660
Really pulled
everything together.

1303
00:48:38,660 --> 00:48:41,269
So that's that's
the process.

1304
00:48:41,269 --> 00:48:43,220
I look at the garment for

1305
00:48:43,220 --> 00:48:45,529
construction clues that
will give me a date.

1306
00:48:45,529 --> 00:48:47,690
And then I will dig into

1307
00:48:47,690 --> 00:48:48,860
the family and
sometimes the

1308
00:48:48,860 --> 00:48:50,255
family stories or bomb.

1309
00:48:50,255 --> 00:48:52,039
There's one dress in
the collection that

1310
00:48:52,039 --> 00:48:53,149
is claimed to be

1311
00:48:53,149 --> 00:48:54,439
the wedding dress
of the mother.

1312
00:48:54,439 --> 00:48:55,910
And there's no
way that dress IS

1313
00:48:55,910 --> 00:48:57,635
a made overdressed
from earlier.

1314
00:48:57,635 --> 00:49:00,499
There's simply no
physical way that is

1315
00:49:00,499 --> 00:49:04,370
possible given the
changes in option.

1316
00:49:04,370 --> 00:49:06,109
Because I'd
answer. Thank you.

1317
00:49:06,109 --> 00:49:07,485
Yeah, that's so
interesting.

1318
00:49:07,485 --> 00:49:08,689
I just wanted to
hear more about

1319
00:49:08,689 --> 00:49:10,909
the investigation process.

1320
00:49:10,909 --> 00:49:13,864
It's fun. It's like
solving a murder.

1321
00:49:13,864 --> 00:49:17,840
I heard that
it's fun to see

1322
00:49:17,840 --> 00:49:19,400
how much fun
history that has

1323
00:49:19,400 --> 00:49:21,349
Anna and that clearly C,

1324
00:49:21,349 --> 00:49:23,014
go down rabbit
holes and asked

1325
00:49:23,014 --> 00:49:25,160
me about pursuing
any kind of

1326
00:49:25,160 --> 00:49:27,244
clear and it really

1327
00:49:27,244 --> 00:49:29,584
created a lot of
order out of chaos.

1328
00:49:29,584 --> 00:49:31,490
But the state of
the collection

1329
00:49:31,490 --> 00:49:33,440
that it was in when she
came onto the scene.

1330
00:49:33,440 --> 00:49:37,699
And we just never good
PR out into the world.

1331
00:49:37,699 --> 00:49:39,560
Such robust research if

1332
00:49:39,560 --> 00:49:40,909
it weren't for
your expertise.

1333
00:49:40,909 --> 00:49:42,290
I mean, even I can
poke around in

1334
00:49:42,290 --> 00:49:44,390
genealogy ancestry.com,

1335
00:49:44,390 --> 00:49:46,414
but if you don't know
what you're looking at.

1336
00:49:46,414 --> 00:49:49,700
So even though it's
obviously complicated,

1337
00:49:49,700 --> 00:49:51,094
it's even more so.

1338
00:49:51,094 --> 00:49:52,549
I just love
listening to you

1339
00:49:52,549 --> 00:49:54,800
describe S3 to, but
knowing full well,

1340
00:49:54,800 --> 00:49:57,050
but it's even more
to it than you're

1341
00:49:57,050 --> 00:49:58,444
letting on because it's

1342
00:49:58,444 --> 00:49:59,900
second hand to you
at this point,

1343
00:49:59,900 --> 00:50:03,620
but I know these
ways by now.

1344
00:50:03,620 --> 00:50:08,450
Yeah. Just letting the slag

1345
00:50:08,450 --> 00:50:10,230
your play out while
you're talking,

1346
00:50:10,230 --> 00:50:12,005
wanted to show that off on

1347
00:50:12,005 --> 00:50:14,749
mice weights or kind
of get an overview.

1348
00:50:14,749 --> 00:50:15,770
But then when flexion,

1349
00:50:15,770 --> 00:50:18,485
so if you happen
to visit it later,

1350
00:50:18,485 --> 00:50:20,480
you can make use of, Wow,

1351
00:50:20,480 --> 00:50:22,969
this doesn't need
bathing suit.

1352
00:50:22,969 --> 00:50:26,429
Me as in heavy and well.

1353
00:50:27,610 --> 00:50:33,809
You can take it off.
Your feeling daring.

1354
00:50:34,060 --> 00:50:38,179
Any other questions,
stick around

1355
00:50:38,179 --> 00:50:39,559
her because that means I

1356
00:50:39,559 --> 00:50:42,649
have an n with Ken
Burns or Netflix.

1357
00:50:42,649 --> 00:50:45,815
Can we get you to click
the documentaries?

1358
00:50:45,815 --> 00:50:47,524
I just want to hear
you talk about

1359
00:50:47,524 --> 00:50:50,404
every single item of SCLC.

1360
00:50:50,404 --> 00:50:52,909
I know this, that's
why I jumped

1361
00:50:52,909 --> 00:50:55,174
by any chance to

1362
00:50:55,174 --> 00:50:57,350
say can have any
kind of conversation

1363
00:50:57,350 --> 00:50:59,480
with history,
especially hot quotes.

1364
00:50:59,480 --> 00:51:01,519
I just feel a
recent broadcasts,

1365
00:51:01,519 --> 00:51:04,279
there's so many
different angles

1366
00:51:04,279 --> 00:51:05,359
and research projects that

1367
00:51:05,359 --> 00:51:06,169
could come of this.

1368
00:51:06,169 --> 00:51:08,990
And so I just wanted to
keep harping a likes

1369
00:51:08,990 --> 00:51:12,590
that grows as a
separate call.

1370
00:51:12,590 --> 00:51:15,154
Ken Burns sending look

1371
00:51:15,154 --> 00:51:18,695
like from New Hampshire,
Hampshire. Come on.

1372
00:51:18,695 --> 00:51:22,864
Get along with
Michael here too.

1373
00:51:22,864 --> 00:51:24,740
I mean, any collection

1374
00:51:24,740 --> 00:51:27,514
is in the hands of
someone for a brief time.

1375
00:51:27,514 --> 00:51:29,689
And I just want
to leave things

1376
00:51:29,689 --> 00:51:32,329
who were clear for
whoever comes next.

1377
00:51:32,329 --> 00:51:35,540
Because it was
a chaotic time

1378
00:51:35,540 --> 00:51:36,634
when I took it over,

1379
00:51:36,634 --> 00:51:38,420
lots of it over I
started working

1380
00:51:38,420 --> 00:51:40,669
with the collection
20 years ago and

1381
00:51:40,669 --> 00:51:42,215
there was the
thing that I keep

1382
00:51:42,215 --> 00:51:43,850
remembering is this
letter I found

1383
00:51:43,850 --> 00:51:46,009
from a curator
who accepted it

1384
00:51:46,009 --> 00:51:48,530
into the museum
collection in 1970.

1385
00:51:48,530 --> 00:51:50,930
And he, he had

1386
00:51:50,930 --> 00:51:52,819
these lists from

1387
00:51:52,819 --> 00:51:54,020
the home economics
department,

1388
00:51:54,020 --> 00:51:55,400
but they made no
sense to him and he

1389
00:51:55,400 --> 00:51:57,590
had no experience
with the objects.

1390
00:51:57,590 --> 00:51:59,150
He didn't know anything
about clothing,

1391
00:51:59,150 --> 00:52:00,410
certainly not
Women's Building,

1392
00:52:00,410 --> 00:52:02,570
which is what the
collection mostly has.

1393
00:52:02,570 --> 00:52:06,244
And and basically
tossed everything into

1394
00:52:06,244 --> 00:52:08,374
storage because you didn't

1395
00:52:08,374 --> 00:52:10,100
you didn't know you
couldn't there wasn't.

1396
00:52:10,100 --> 00:52:10,669
He didn't have

1397
00:52:10,669 --> 00:52:12,290
enough familiarity
with the objects

1398
00:52:12,290 --> 00:52:15,019
to make sense of the
early written lists.

1399
00:52:15,019 --> 00:52:16,760
Whereas at this point,

1400
00:52:16,760 --> 00:52:17,959
if I read something, I

1401
00:52:17,959 --> 00:52:19,895
can picture it in my head.

1402
00:52:19,895 --> 00:52:21,980
Oh, that's this is such
an it's over there.

1403
00:52:21,980 --> 00:52:24,095
Just because I've worked
with it for so long.

1404
00:52:24,095 --> 00:52:26,089
And that's actually
allowed me to

1405
00:52:26,089 --> 00:52:27,500
reunite some things that

1406
00:52:27,500 --> 00:52:29,344
had gotten separated
over the years,

1407
00:52:29,344 --> 00:52:32,269
like that color of

1408
00:52:32,269 --> 00:52:34,040
silk and that
texture of silk.

1409
00:52:34,040 --> 00:52:35,210
I've seen it before in

1410
00:52:35,210 --> 00:52:37,655
this collection somewhere.
And it's unusual.

1411
00:52:37,655 --> 00:52:40,399
And I put the two
pieces together and oh,

1412
00:52:40,399 --> 00:52:43,459
this is the overdress needs

1413
00:52:43,459 --> 00:52:44,990
to actually do go together

1414
00:52:44,990 --> 00:52:46,744
and then going back
into the old list.

1415
00:52:46,744 --> 00:52:48,500
Yes. They were at 1

1416
00:52:48,500 --> 00:52:51,319
actually together and
then got separated.

1417
00:52:51,319 --> 00:52:55,429
So yeah, that's,
that's the fun thing.

1418
00:52:55,429 --> 00:52:57,739
Pentagon astute at random.

1419
00:52:57,739 --> 00:52:59,719
And I remember a
story you told

1420
00:52:59,719 --> 00:53:03,529
me about was there

1421
00:53:03,529 --> 00:53:05,629
was some documentation
are labels that

1422
00:53:05,629 --> 00:53:07,550
this first curator tossed

1423
00:53:07,550 --> 00:53:09,334
out, they throw away.

1424
00:53:09,334 --> 00:53:13,159
But we both really, from

1425
00:53:13,159 --> 00:53:14,600
a library with
respect to empty

1426
00:53:14,600 --> 00:53:17,285
growing up any labeling,

1427
00:53:17,285 --> 00:53:22,070
original databases,
database inventories,

1428
00:53:22,070 --> 00:53:25,219
didn't assign identifying
numbers to things.

1429
00:53:25,219 --> 00:53:27,620
Everything was
numbered within

1430
00:53:27,620 --> 00:53:29,164
the thing that held it,

1431
00:53:29,164 --> 00:53:31,070
like a wardrobe or
chest or whatever.

1432
00:53:31,070 --> 00:53:32,270
So you finished that.

1433
00:53:32,270 --> 00:53:33,319
Where do you go to

1434
00:53:33,319 --> 00:53:34,009
the next one and you

1435
00:53:34,009 --> 00:53:35,404
start over with
you numbering.

1436
00:53:35,404 --> 00:53:37,280
And things got
moved around.

1437
00:53:37,280 --> 00:53:39,710
So the number system
didn't really help.

1438
00:53:39,710 --> 00:53:41,810
But at some point they

1439
00:53:41,810 --> 00:53:44,434
must have assigned
some kind of number.

1440
00:53:44,434 --> 00:53:46,790
Because there are still
some objects that

1441
00:53:46,790 --> 00:53:49,219
have a little business
card that say u and

1442
00:53:49,219 --> 00:53:50,674
h collection or whatever

1443
00:53:50,674 --> 00:53:52,700
on them and handwritten who

1444
00:53:52,700 --> 00:53:54,349
that were typed
in some cases who

1445
00:53:54,349 --> 00:53:57,274
the donor was, and
a little number.

1446
00:53:57,274 --> 00:53:59,659
Sewn to the garments,

1447
00:53:59,659 --> 00:54:02,795
but this was just
acidic card stock.

1448
00:54:02,795 --> 00:54:06,739
And when the curator took

1449
00:54:06,739 --> 00:54:08,960
this on in 1970

1450
00:54:08,960 --> 00:54:11,074
and open those
wardrobe doors,

1451
00:54:11,074 --> 00:54:12,875
many of those tags

1452
00:54:12,875 --> 00:54:15,304
were lying on the
floor of the Wardrobe,

1453
00:54:15,304 --> 00:54:17,509
no longer attached to
it and government.

1454
00:54:17,509 --> 00:54:20,239
So we threw them
out. And I'm

1455
00:54:20,239 --> 00:54:21,800
like, no, no, no,

1456
00:54:21,800 --> 00:54:22,850
you put them in a box and

1457
00:54:22,850 --> 00:54:23,705
that box is labeled

1458
00:54:23,705 --> 00:54:24,709
these were the things that

1459
00:54:24,709 --> 00:54:25,880
were in that job and you

1460
00:54:25,880 --> 00:54:27,349
label the things that
were in that word up

1461
00:54:27,349 --> 00:54:28,219
with these are the things

1462
00:54:28,219 --> 00:54:29,269
that were in that
weren't OK. And

1463
00:54:29,269 --> 00:54:31,399
then suddenly you
only have 15 things,

1464
00:54:31,399 --> 00:54:35,029
20 things try to figure
out instead of 700.

1465
00:54:35,029 --> 00:54:36,769
And there are
some items I will

1466
00:54:36,769 --> 00:54:38,720
never figure out
because like I said,

1467
00:54:38,720 --> 00:54:40,429
you have a white
shirt laced with

1468
00:54:40,429 --> 00:54:42,784
embroidery on it and
you have six of them.

1469
00:54:42,784 --> 00:54:43,819
You don't know which

1470
00:54:43,819 --> 00:54:45,544
one you're talking about.

1471
00:54:45,544 --> 00:54:47,689
Because the description
is very simple.

1472
00:54:47,689 --> 00:54:49,475
On these early lists there,

1473
00:54:49,475 --> 00:54:50,780
they'd just say
White Shirt,

1474
00:54:50,780 --> 00:54:51,815
Waist embroidered.

1475
00:54:51,815 --> 00:54:56,040
Great. One of six
possible donors.

1476
00:54:56,050 --> 00:54:59,209
But I'm, I'm slowly
going through and

1477
00:54:59,209 --> 00:55:00,259
every time I go through I

1478
00:55:00,259 --> 00:55:01,760
seem to find
one more thing.

1479
00:55:01,760 --> 00:55:04,340
So it's just, it's,
it's all iterative.

1480
00:55:04,340 --> 00:55:05,090
It just keep going through

1481
00:55:05,090 --> 00:55:07,354
it and the information,

1482
00:55:07,354 --> 00:55:08,855
more information is there.

1483
00:55:08,855 --> 00:55:10,920
I just haven't
found it yet.

1484
00:55:11,920 --> 00:55:14,060
Thanks my work Australia,

1485
00:55:14,060 --> 00:55:17,239
MRSA or what have you
and your dedication to

1486
00:55:17,239 --> 00:55:23,510
the obsession Bay.
We'll plug in.

1487
00:55:24,050 --> 00:55:29,110
These things. Just
speak to me of lives

1488
00:55:29,110 --> 00:55:31,509
that we just
simply otherwise

1489
00:55:31,509 --> 00:55:34,970
would have no
understanding at all.

1490
00:55:38,070 --> 00:55:40,495
And they're beautiful
objects even,

1491
00:55:40,495 --> 00:55:41,770
even the how stress

1492
00:55:41,770 --> 00:55:43,509
with its represent
terrorism repairs.

1493
00:55:43,509 --> 00:55:46,329
It's beautiful
in its own way.

1494
00:55:46,329 --> 00:55:50,289
Oh, I had a question
about how stress, what,

1495
00:55:50,289 --> 00:55:51,940
what would be
the sort of like

1496
00:55:51,940 --> 00:55:54,399
socioeconomic standing
of the person

1497
00:55:54,399 --> 00:55:57,190
that or that wasn't
like a metal where like

1498
00:55:57,190 --> 00:55:58,539
all middle class
ladies running

1499
00:55:58,539 --> 00:56:00,220
around and those
like him there now.

1500
00:56:00,220 --> 00:56:05,440
Well, it depends
on a the family

1501
00:56:05,440 --> 00:56:08,950
was certainly means that

1502
00:56:08,950 --> 00:56:11,349
garment might have been
worn by a servant.

1503
00:56:11,349 --> 00:56:14,274
But if I will never know
who exactly worried,

1504
00:56:14,274 --> 00:56:17,680
because there's
just, it's too

1505
00:56:17,680 --> 00:56:19,374
vague for
genealogies or two

1506
00:56:19,374 --> 00:56:21,969
huge by that point going
working backwards.

1507
00:56:21,969 --> 00:56:24,924
But I do know that it
came from that house.

1508
00:56:24,924 --> 00:56:28,315
And certainly even
women of means

1509
00:56:28,315 --> 00:56:31,750
might do work in
the garden or

1510
00:56:31,750 --> 00:56:35,530
might take it upon

1511
00:56:35,530 --> 00:56:37,390
themselves to handle

1512
00:56:37,390 --> 00:56:39,295
certain aspects of
running the household.

1513
00:56:39,295 --> 00:56:43,010
On she MIR version
of leggings,

1514
00:56:43,020 --> 00:56:46,350
of had that dress

1515
00:56:46,350 --> 00:56:48,560
better state herself and

1516
00:56:48,560 --> 00:56:49,985
then passed it
to a servant.

1517
00:56:49,985 --> 00:56:50,870
I would be surprised that

1518
00:56:50,870 --> 00:56:52,759
that didn't happen frankly.

1519
00:56:52,759 --> 00:56:56,689
So it, it's something

1520
00:56:56,689 --> 00:57:01,535
that certainly on this
side of the Atlantic.

1521
00:57:01,535 --> 00:57:03,740
I'm not sure you would
find that kind of

1522
00:57:03,740 --> 00:57:05,810
behavior over in England.

1523
00:57:05,810 --> 00:57:08,374
But here was a little
bit more of a,

1524
00:57:08,374 --> 00:57:12,695
of a, the practical
attitude.

1525
00:57:12,695 --> 00:57:14,689
If you know, you're
going to need to go

1526
00:57:14,689 --> 00:57:18,530
with something in attics,

1527
00:57:18,530 --> 00:57:19,669
you're not going
to where your best

1528
00:57:19,669 --> 00:57:21,080
dress that would
be foolish.

1529
00:57:21,080 --> 00:57:22,190
You're going to
wear something

1530
00:57:22,190 --> 00:57:23,329
that you don't
care if it gets

1531
00:57:23,329 --> 00:57:26,760
damaged. It's like a smock.

1532
00:57:27,700 --> 00:57:30,950
Keep keep time that
homespun dressed in

1533
00:57:30,950 --> 00:57:32,360
mind if you ever visit

1534
00:57:32,360 --> 00:57:33,259
three to me than

1535
00:57:33,259 --> 00:57:34,159
the history that
I mentioned.

1536
00:57:34,159 --> 00:57:35,419
But that was the

1537
00:57:35,419 --> 00:57:36,709
house that average
length beam.

1538
00:57:36,709 --> 00:57:39,139
And then we, after
our project,

1539
00:57:39,139 --> 00:57:40,130
we can celebrate and

1540
00:57:40,130 --> 00:57:42,439
they're really
lovely dinner.

1541
00:57:42,439 --> 00:57:44,179
It was fascinating to

1542
00:57:44,179 --> 00:57:45,860
Imagenet walking through

1543
00:57:45,860 --> 00:57:47,359
those rooms and having

1544
00:57:47,359 --> 00:57:49,864
a life which is
really anchored.

1545
00:57:49,864 --> 00:57:52,580
That's history as, as

1546
00:57:52,580 --> 00:57:55,969
real and as a part of
our local industry.

1547
00:57:55,969 --> 00:57:58,265
It's just such a richness.

1548
00:57:58,265 --> 00:58:01,009
I admit that the
summer's worth dress.

1549
00:58:01,009 --> 00:58:02,900
I, I, I'm I

1550
00:58:02,900 --> 00:58:04,670
want to take it and
put it in the car and

1551
00:58:04,670 --> 00:58:05,780
ticket for a ride around

1552
00:58:05,780 --> 00:58:07,399
some risk for three
of the house was that

1553
00:58:07,399 --> 00:58:14,280
they remembered
weaken or aims.

1554
00:58:15,280 --> 00:58:17,810
We begin was not there

1555
00:58:17,810 --> 00:58:20,194
according to what I had to.

1556
00:58:20,194 --> 00:58:22,099
I went and I
found temperance

1557
00:58:22,099 --> 00:58:23,420
Pickering nice grave in

1558
00:58:23,420 --> 00:58:26,614
LinkedIn and left her
some yellow flowers.

1559
00:58:26,614 --> 00:58:29,120
I have a list of
people who did die and

1560
00:58:29,120 --> 00:58:31,790
locally who have
connections to the museum.

1561
00:58:31,790 --> 00:58:35,179
And I, there's still
time to go and just pay

1562
00:58:35,179 --> 00:58:37,579
my respects because it's

1563
00:58:37,579 --> 00:58:40,379
their lives that have
given me my work.

1564
00:58:41,890 --> 00:58:47,644
So I think that's

1565
00:58:47,644 --> 00:58:49,130
probably a great
place to stop.

1566
00:58:49,130 --> 00:58:51,575
And if anyone has
any other questions,

1567
00:58:51,575 --> 00:58:55,415
you can certainly find
me in my directory.

1568
00:58:55,415 --> 00:58:56,840
I would be happy to

1569
00:58:56,840 --> 00:58:58,399
connect you with
the Sridhar.

1570
00:58:58,399 --> 00:59:00,919
Absolutely. Well,
thank you again very

1571
00:59:00,919 --> 00:59:04,070
much for your attention
and your time.

1572
00:59:04,070 --> 00:59:05,569
You're very obviously

1573
00:59:05,569 --> 00:59:06,949
enthusiastic about sharing.

1574
00:59:06,949 --> 00:59:10,340
Less. Happy to work
with you if you

1575
00:59:10,340 --> 00:59:12,635
have questions or anything

1576
00:59:12,635 --> 00:59:13,790
else you'd like to muon.

1577
00:59:13,790 --> 00:59:15,814
So please check
out the resources,

1578
00:59:15,814 --> 00:59:18,425
find it online, it's
very discoverable.

1579
00:59:18,425 --> 00:59:21,845
You can even just
Google or mud Bowen,

1580
00:59:21,845 --> 00:59:23,779
Bowen you and age textiles

1581
00:59:23,779 --> 00:59:24,889
do in an ancient find it,

1582
00:59:24,889 --> 00:59:26,660
that's the magic of the
scholars repository.

1583
00:59:26,660 --> 00:59:29,164
It's Google index and
highly separable.

1584
00:59:29,164 --> 00:59:30,920
We're grateful for that,

1585
00:59:30,920 --> 00:59:34,159
so thank you
all for coming.

1586
00:59:34,159 --> 00:59:35,944
I guess I'll stop
the recording here.

1587
00:59:35,944 --> 00:59:38,209
Thanks. Thanks to
your friendly faces.

1588
00:59:38,209 --> 00:59:39,719
Good to see you.