Costume; Clothing; Outerwear; Cloaks; Cardinals (cloaks)
c. 1750-1800. Woman's hooded "cardinal" cloak of heavily fulled red wool, full-length.
This style of hooded cloak, popular throughout the last quarter of the eighteenth century, is called a “cardinal” because of its bright red wool. The cloak itself is a full half circle, cut from 152.5 cm / 60 in. wool broadcloth and pieced at its bottom corners. The fabric is so densely woven and fulled that the hems and edges are left raw without fraying, and seam allowances are very small.
The cloak is sewn to the bottom of a pieced collar, where it is gathered with six pleats. The hood is pieced on its sides and sewn to the top of the collar, with two pleats on either side of a center-back seam. Fabric at the back of the head above the seam is gathered into twelve pleats, then the folds of the pleats inside the hood are stitched firmly together to the top of the seam, causing them to fan out from the center. The pleat folds on the exterior of the hood are not sewn together, but are controlled from inside the hood by two rows of stitches. This and the heavy structure of the fabric allows the hood to stand away from the wearer’s head, so that headwear or hairdressing is not disturbed. Hand-sewn.
Length (front): 102.87 cm / 40.5 in.
Length (back): 113.03 cm / 44.5 in.
Hem: 411.48 cm / 162 in.
Length (face opening): 133.35 cm / 52.5 in.
Depth (hood): 35.8775 cm / 14.125 in.
Gift of the Coe family. Descended through the family, owned and worn by Temperance Pickering Knight (1732-1821) of Dover Point, New Hampshire.
University of New Hampshire Library
Astrida Schaeffer, photographer/curator
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Cloaks, Cardinals (cloaks), Capes, c. 1750-1800, Dover, New Hampshire, United States, Fulled wool, Red (color), Broadcloth, Collar, Hood, Pleats, Hand-sewn, Temperance Pickering Knight, Janet Coe Stearns, Margaret Coe Ninde, Sarah T. Coe, Anne Coe Curry, Coe family, Coe (donor)