Costume; Clothing; Main garments; Dresses
1853-1863. Green and tan striped one-piece dress with tiered pagoda sleeves and green, white, and pink trim, opening in front and with a floor-length skirt pleated to the waist.
The bodice is made with three panels: two in front with two darts on each side of the center-front opening, and one back panel with curved tucks meeting almost at center. The brown cotton lining is pieced and repaired but has the same configuration, but without the back tucks and with a dart at center back. The neck is high and the waist is round and at the natural level. The dress closes with thirteen concealed hooks and eyes.
The shoulders are dropped. The pagoda sleeves are cut on the bias, closely fitted at the shoulder and flaring widely at the hem. An over-sleeve wraps around the arm starting at the back seam as a cap sleeve and ending at the front seam near the hem.
The skirt is slightly longer in back than in front, and is made of three panels 48.3 cm / 19 in. wide and five panels 47.6 cm / 18.75 in. wide. The cotton lining has a different panel configuration, made of only six panels. The lengths of the skirt are pleated to the bodice all around with box and knife pleats, with the front left mostly flat and the majority of the fullness in back. There is a pocket at the right side.
White trim with green ribbon and pink flowers finishes all hems of the sleeves and over-sleeves. There is piping at the neck, scye, and waist.
The cotton lining the bodice and skirt are plain brown, but the fabric lining the sleeves is polished white cotton. Hand-sewn.
Bust: 87.6 cm / 34.5 in.
Waist: 71.1 cm / 28 in.
Sleeve: 52.7 cm / 20.75 in.
Shoulder seam: 21.6 cm / 8.5 in.
Hem: 375.9 cm / 148 in.
Length of skirt (front): 109.2 cm / 43 in.
Length of skirt (back): 116.8 cm / 46 in.
University of New Hampshire Library
Astrida Schaeffer, photographer/curator
Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 4.0 License
Dresses, 1853-1863, One-piece dresses, Pagoda sleeves, Tiered sleeves, Over-sleeves, Dropped shoulders, Front opening, High neck, Floor-length skirt, Natural waistline, Stripes, Green (color), Tan (color), White (color), Pink (color), Pocket, Box pleats, Knife pleats, Darts, Tucks, Hooks and eyes, Ribbon, Flowers, Piping, Hand-sewn, Cotton lining, Brown (color), Polished cotton lining