Irma G. Bowen Historic Clothing Collection
 

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Creator

Unknown

Date Created

c. 1750-1800

Subject

Costume; Clothing; Outerwear; Cloaks; Cardinals (cloaks)

Medium

Wool

Description

c. 1750-1800. Woman's hooded "cardinal" cloak of heavily fulled red wool, full-length.

This style of hooded cloak, popular throughout the last quarter of the eighteenth century, is called a “cardinal” because of its bright red wool. The cloak itself is a full half circle, cut from 152.5 cm / 60 in. wool broadcloth and pieced at its bottom corners. The fabric is so densely woven and fulled that the hems and edges are left raw without fraying, and seam allowances are very small.

The cloak is sewn to the bottom of a pieced collar, where it is gathered with six pleats. The hood is pieced on its sides and sewn to the top of the collar, with two pleats on either side of a center-back seam. Fabric at the back of the head above the seam is gathered into twelve pleats, then the folds of the pleats inside the hood are stitched firmly together to the top of the seam, causing them to fan out from the center. The pleat folds on the exterior of the hood are not sewn together, but are controlled from inside the hood by two rows of stitches. This and the heavy structure of the fabric allows the hood to stand away from the wearer’s head, so that headwear or hairdressing is not disturbed. Hand-sewn.

Extent

Length (front): 102.87 cm / 40.5 in.
Length (back): 113.03 cm / 44.5 in.
Hem: 411.48 cm / 162 in.
Length (face opening): 133.35 cm / 52.5 in.
Depth (hood): 35.8775 cm / 14.125 in.

Provenance

Gift of the Coe family. Descended through the family, owned and worn by Temperance Pickering Knight (1732-1821) of Dover Point, New Hampshire.

Museum Number

58

Publisher

University of New Hampshire Library

Contributor

Astrida Schaeffer, photographer/curator

Date Digitized

7-1-2019

Creative Commons License

Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 4.0 License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 4.0 License

Comments

The Irma G. Bowen Historic Clothing Collection digital catalog was produced by the UNH Library Digital Collection Initiative, supported in part by a grant from the Mooseplate program and New Hampshire State Council on the Arts. Additional funding provided by the E. Ruth Buxton Stephenson Memorial Fund.
Photography copyright, Astrida Schaeffer.

Pickering_and_Coe_History.pdf (60 kB)
Pickering and Coe history

Keywords

Cloaks, Cardinals (cloaks), Capes, c. 1750-1800, Dover, New Hampshire, United States, Fulled wool, Red (color), Broadcloth, Collar, Hood, Pleats, Hand-sewn, Temperance Pickering Knight, Janet Coe Stearns, Margaret Coe Ninde, Sarah T. Coe, Anne Coe Curry, Coe family, Coe (donor)

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