Women's costume accessories; Worn costume accessories; Headgear
Silk, glazed cotton, wool, cording
c. 1840s. Steel blue silk plain weave winter hood, constructed from one large shape cut on the bias after being pieced at the left side along selvedges to create the necessary size. Eight rows of cord quilting enclose narrow cotton cording along which the fabric is slightly gathered, creating eight puffed channels between them. All but the two channels framing the face are filled with down for warmth. Gathers increase in density as the shape reduces toward the top of the crown, where the back panel of the hood drops from the last row of cord quilting to tight gathers at the nape. The hood is lined with glazed light brown cotton throughout, as well as with a lavender silk satin along the face opening, which is pieced diagonally at the right side. A narrow band of the exterior silk extends past the lavender lining into the hood.
A lightly padded bavolet or flounce made of the same steel blue silk and lining as the rest of the bonnet covers the back of the neck and is edged in a 1.3 cm / 0.5 in. lavender silk satin bias strip.
A 6.7 cm / 2.625 in. wide faded purple brocade ribbon edged with picots is tied in a two-lobed bow with streamers and pinned to the back where the bavolet joins the hood. Additional ribbons are sewn to the interior to tie the hood in place. Hand-sewn. Likely homemade.
Depth: 29.2 cm / 11.5 in.
Height: 29.8 cm / 11.75 in.
Length: 10.5 cm / 4.125 in. (length of bavolet)
Length: 53.3 cm / 21 in. (length of tie)
University of New Hampshire Library
Astrida Schaeffer, photographer/curator
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Women’s garments, Accessories worn, Head, Headgear, Hats, Bonnets (hats), Hoods (headgear), 1840s, United States, Winter, Bavolet, Curtain, Flounce, Apron, Bow, China silk, Plain weave silk, Silk satin, Satin, Brocade, Cotton (textile), Glazed cotton, Down (feather material), Batting, Cording, Ribbon (material), Picot, Steel blue (color range), Purple (color), Lavender (color), Selvedge, Bias, Quilted, Cord quilted, Channel quilted, Homemade, Hand-sewn